针织毛衫版片的参数化设计模型与实现  

Parametric design modeling and implementation of patterns for knit sweaters

作　　者：李玉贤 巫晓雯 吴光军 丛洪莲 LI Yuxian;WU Xiaowen;WU Guangjun;CONG Honglian(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2023年第9期168-174,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61772238);泰山产业领军人才项目(20180224)。

摘　　要：为提高毛衫设计的准确性和高效性,以合体毛衫版片为例,探讨了针织毛衫版片的参数化设计方法。首先基于服装基础版型绘制毛衫样板,探讨样板与人体参数之间的关系,确定各部位关键点位置。其次基于人体工学要求拟合领口曲线、袖窿曲线及袖山曲线,研究拟合过程中存在的数学关系,提出参数约束方法,并通过合体毛衫设计实例来验证样板的准确性。结果表明:针织毛衫设计过程中,可利用圆弧拟合模型约束领口曲线和袖窿曲线,利用贝塞尔曲线模型约束袖山曲线。基于部位间数学和位置关系进行针织毛衫参数化变款式设计,再结合尺寸数据快速生成上机工艺,可节省反复计算和打样时间,提升毛衫数字化设计水平。Objective Parametric platemaking is widely used in the rapid construction of clothing patterns,and the rapid design process is becoming more and more mature,but the forming process of knitted sweater is complex,and the parametric platemaking methods of existing patterns are difficult to apply.Based on the principles and methods of conventional clothing pattern design,the design of the basic patterns of knit sweaters was carried out in combination with the forming process,and the parametric platemaking method in the design process was discussed for improvement of the digital design of knit sweaters.Method The basic patterns of knit sweaters were made based on the clothing pattern design method,the relationship between the patterns and the human body parameters was discussed,and the key points of each part were determined.The fitting constraints of the neckline curve,armhole curve and sleeve mountain curve were then carried out,the mathematical relationship existing in the fitting process was discussed,and the key data in the curve fitting process were determined.The parametric design software was utilized to constrain the basic patterns and to determine the constraint data and user parameters of the fit sweater.The feasibility of the parametric design method was verified by making the finished product on the computerized flat knitting machine.Results Based on the principle of woven garment plate making,the data of length,bust,sleeve length and sleeve width were used as the basis to construct the basic plate of knitted sweater,taking into consideration of the sweater forming process.The curve part of the sweater needed to be set flat and retracted needle segment,and the correction factor was adopted to finely adjust the local size(Fig.1).In the process of parametric design,the sweater curve was further decomposed by arc,and in order to match the shape of the neckline and the change trend of curvature,the curve mostly adopted a three-stage retracting needle process.For the neckline and the armhole,the curves were di

关 键 词：针织 毛衫 基础版片 数字化设计方法 参数约束 圆弧拟合 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]