基于湖湘非遗夏布文化的新中式服装创新设计  

Research on Innovative Design of New Chinese Clothing Based on Huxiang Intangible Cultural Heritage Grass Cloth Culture

作　　者：黄子琰 周衡书[1] 夏添[1] HUANG Ziyan;ZHOU Hengshu;XIA Tian(School of Textiles and Clothing,Hunan Institute of Engineering,Xiangtan 411104,China)

机构地区：[1]湖南工程学院纺织服装学院,湖南湘潭411104

出　　处：《湖南工程学院学报（社会科学版）》2023年第3期88-94,共7页Journal of Hunan Institute of Engineering(Social Science Edition)

基　　金：湖南省重点研发计划项目“特色苎麻功能材料生产关键技术及产品研究与应用”(2020NK2028)。

摘　　要：夏布是中华民族纺织技术的结晶与艺术瑰宝,承载了历代劳动人民的造物智慧。文章重点从夏布的织造技艺、规格精度、色彩特征归纳出夏布绿色环保的本质属性与朴素自然的艺术风格特征,并对其融入新中式服装的设计路径进行探讨,总结新中式服装所应具备的特质。研究认为:在新中式服装设计实践中弘扬夏布文化应秉承“绿色自然”“内涵为主”的设计理念;面料上通过夏布与其他材料作拼接、混搭、重组,款式上将夏布运用在绲边、立领、袖缘翻折部位,服装图案采用数码印花技术搭配抽象图案打造中式服装的时尚感,提升新中式服装产品的附加值,唤起消费者受众的文化认同与审美共鸣。Grass cloth is the crystallization and artistic treasure of Chinese textile technology,carrying the creation wisdom of working people of all ages.In this study,the weaving skills,specification accuracy,and color characteristics of grass cloth were used to conclude the essential attributes of green and environmental protection as well as the simple and natural artistic style characteristics of grass cloth,and then the new Chinese style clothing design path was integrated into the discussion,and finally,the characteristics of the new Chinese style clothing were summarized.According to this study,it is believed that the design concepts of“green nature”and“connotation first”should be adhered to in carrying forward the grass cloth culture in the practice of new Chinese fashion design.In terms of fabric,grass cloth was used to splice,mix,and recombine with other materials.In terms of style,grass cloth was used in piping,standing collars,and sleeve edge folds,and digital printing technology was used in clothing patterns.Then abstract patterns were matched to create the fashion sense of Chinese clothing so as to enhance the added value of new Chinese clothing products and arouse the cultural identity and aesthetic resonance of the consumer audiences.

关 键 词：夏布 新中式服装设计 织造技艺 绿色纺织品 

分 类 号：TS125.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]