零裁耗经编成形双层裙裤结构设计与建模  

Structure Design and Modeling of Zero Cutting Loss Warp-Knitted Fully-Formed Double-Layer Culottes

作　　者：姚思宏 董智佳 蒋高明[1] 郭燕雨秋 YAO Sihong;DONG Zhijia;JIANG Gaoming;GUO Yanyuqiu(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《服装学报》2023年第5期411-416,共6页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61902150)。

摘　　要：为实现经编成形裙裤生产过程零裁耗,以双层裙裤为例,进行结构设计与建模。优化传统裤装裆部结构,将分支筒型裤装转化成两个独立的单筒型织物进行款式设计与版型结构划分,消除裁耗;对裙裤进行经编组织的功能分区,根据不同部位的需求设计相应的织物组织结构;通过织物仿真与三维建模使裙裤参数可视化,调节相应参数;完成织造工艺。结果表明:通过优化经编成形裙裤结构并进行功能分区,可在高效生产的同时实现零裁耗。该研究为探索经编成形产品创新结构工艺提供参考思路,促进服装生产绿色转型。In order to realize zero cutting loss in the production process of warp-knitted fully-formed culottes,the structure design and modeling of the double-layer culottes were carried out.Firstly,the crotch structure of traditional pants was optimized,and the branch tube trousers were transformed into two independent single tube fabrics for style design and pattern structure division to eliminate cutting.Secondly,the culottes were divided into functional zones and designed with different properties of organization according to the needs of different parts.Then,through fabric simulation and three-dimensional modeling,the parameters of culottes were visualized,and the corresponding parameters were adjusted.Finally,the weaving process was completed.The results show that,by optimizing the structure of warp-knitted fully-formed double-layer culottes and making functional zoning,zero cutting loss can be achieved while efficient production,which provides a reference for the research of innovative structure technology of warp-knitted fully-formed products,and promotes the green transformation of clothing production.

关 键 词：零裁耗 经编成形 结构工艺 仿真 三维建模 双层裙裤 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]