不同乳化剂和促渗剂对抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠的经皮渗透的影响  

The Effect of Different Emulsifiers and Enhancers on the Percutaneous Penetration of Sodium L-Ascorbyl-2-Phosphate

作　　者：蔡国强 罗天骥 权琰 潘卫 张蕾 何一波 CAI Guoqiang;LUO Tianji;QUAN Yan;PAN Wei;ZHANG Lei;HE Yibo(NICE Zhejiang Technology Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou 310051,Zhejiang,China;Key Laboratory of Green Cleaning Technology&Detergent of Zhejiang Province,Lishui 323000,Zhejiang,China)

机构地区：[1]纳爱斯浙江科技有限公司,浙江杭州310051 [2]浙江省绿色清洁技术及洗涤用品重点实验室,浙江丽水323000

出　　处：《香料香精化妆品》2023年第5期98-103,共6页Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics

摘　　要：研究不同乳化剂和促渗剂对抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠(sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate,SAP)经皮渗透及促渗透体系的影响。采用Franz扩散池,以猪耳皮为皮肤模型,生理盐水为接收液,考察了6种常用乳化剂与7种促渗剂对SAP经皮渗透的影响。结果表明,不同乳化剂体系中SAP的渗透效果差异较大,SAP在PEG-100硬脂酸酯乳化剂膏霜体系中渗透效果最好,累积渗透量Q8达到60.70μg·cm^(-2),皮肤滞留量为18.26μg,乳化体系渗透能力约为水溶液体系的45%。7种不同促渗剂对SAP膏霜的经皮渗透均有一定促进作用,促渗效果强弱排序:水杨酸>四氢胡椒碱>丙二醇>尿素>氮酮>冰片>薄荷脑>无促渗剂,其中水杨酸和四氢胡椒碱促渗效果较明显,SAP膏霜增渗倍率分别为2.3倍和1.84倍。选出的促渗剂和乳化体系可为SAP在化妆品膏霜的应用提供理论依据。To investigate the effects of different emulsifiers and different pro-seepage agents against the percutaneous penetration of sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate(SAP)and the pro-osmosis system.Franz diffusion cell was used,pig ear skin was used as the skin model and normal saline was used as the receiving fluid,the effects of 6 commonly used emulsifiers and 7 exfiltration agents on sap through the skin of pigs’ears were investigated.The results showed that SAP had the best penetration effect in the PEG-100 emulsifier cream system,and the cumulative penetration of SAP Q8 reached 60.70μg·cm^(-2),the skin retention amount was 18.26μg,and the permeability of the emulsification system was about 45%of the aqueous solution system.Seven different exolarants had a certain promoting effect on the percutaneous penetration of SAP cream,and the strong and weak effects of permeation were:salicylic acid>tetrahydropiperine>propylene glycol>urea>azotone>ice flakes>menthol>no impermeable agents,among which salicylic acid and tetrahydropiperine had obvious osmotic effects,and the permeability rate of SAP cream was 2.3 times and 1.84 times,respectively.The selected impermeable agents and emulsifier systems provide a theoretical basis for SAP in the development of cosmetic creams.

关 键 词：化妆品 抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠 促渗剂 乳化剂 经皮渗透 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]