海南五指山地区黎锦染黑植物调查与分析  

Investigation and analysis of black dyeing plants of Li brocade in Wuzhishan,Hainan

作　　者：张国庆 李彤 罗文雄[2] 谷岸[1] 陈杨[1] ZHANG Guoqing;LI Tong;LUO Wenxiong;GU An;CHEN Yang(Department of Conservation Science,The Palace Museum,Beijing 100009,China;Hainan National City Museum,Wuzhishan 572200,China)

机构地区：[1]故宫博物院文保科技部,北京100009 [2]海南省民族博物馆,海南五指山572200

出　　处：《染整技术》2023年第10期17-23,共7页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

基　　金：国家重点研发计划专项资助(2019YFC1520300)。

摘　　要：黎锦是黎族的重要文化标识,浓缩了黎族悠久的历史与文化。黎锦多以黑色为基本颜色,根据五指山哈方言区的实地调查,黑色的印染工艺共使用了8种植物。综合形态特征和分子证据(DNA条形码)对植物种属进行鉴定,经鉴定染色植物为厚皮树Lannea coromandelica、海南蒲桃Syzygium cumini、高山榕Ficus altissima、飞机草Chro-molaena odorata、栓皮栎Quercus variabilis、细基丸Polyalthia cerasoides、野青树Indigofera suffruticosa和白饭树Flueggea virosa。结合文献调查可知,黑色是由8种植物中类似单宁的成分与土壤中丰富的Fe3+螯合而得。植物种属的鉴定有助于黎锦技艺的传承,也揭示了传承中出现的偏差。入侵物种C.odorata如何参与染色过程仍有待探索。Li brocade is an important cultural mark of the Li minority people,which represents their long history and culture.Li brocade mostly uses black as the basic color.According to the field survey for the Ha dialect area in Wu-zhishan City,a total of eight plants are used for the black dyeing.These plants are determined as Lannea coromandelica,Syzygium cumini,Ficus altissima,Chromolaena odorata,Quercus variabilis,Polyalthia cerasoides,Indigofera suffruticosa,and Flueggea virosafine,from an integrate approach using both morphological and molecular(DNA barcode)evidence.Ad-ditional literature review suggests that this black color is produced by chelation of tannin-like components from these plants with abundant Fe3+absorbed from the soil.The identification of these dye-plant species helps the inheritation of Li brocade techniques and reveals the changes of plant species through time.How the invasive species C.odorata get in-volved in the dye process remains to be explored.

关 键 词：黎锦 植物染料 染黑 DNA条形码 

分 类 号：Q949.95[生物学—植物学] G315[文化科学] TS193.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]