从日本蛮绘装束中的纹样看中日服饰交流  

Costume communication between China and Japan from the perspective ofJapanese bane-shozoku’s pattern

作　　者：刘勤艺 刘瑜[1] LIU Qinyi;LIU Yu(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第11期159-167,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金重大招标项目(16ZDA173)。

摘　　要：蛮绘装束是日本舞乐服饰中的代表性服饰类别之一,它源自下层武官装束,自平安时代以后均有承袭和使用,时至今日依旧活跃在能剧舞台上。文章以蛮绘为切入点,运用图像分析与文献考证相结合的方式,从染织纹样的角度考察蛮绘装束从中世到近世的发展脉络,并将其置于与中国同时代服饰纹样相比较的视野,指出日本蛮绘独特的圆形纹章样式和中国传统的团窠图案有着相似的审美趣味,且均把狮纹作为武官服饰的装饰纹样。从而体现出日本对中国服饰文化的接受度,以及再诠释的姿态。Bane-shozoku,derived from lower-ranking military officers in Japan,is one of the representative categories of Japanese dance costumes.Its unique circular emblem style has been inherited and used since the Heian period,and continues to be prevalent on Noh theaters today.As traditional Japanese dyeing and weaving patterns have been significantly influenced by China in terms of themes,forms,and applications,conducting research on bane-shozoku patterns holds great significance in enhancing the understanding and cultural exchange between China and Japan in the field of dyeing and weaving.We took Bane pattern as an entry point.Using a combination of image analysis and documentary research,we examined the development context of bane costumes from the medieval period to the modern era on dyed and woven patterns.We compared these patterns with contemporary Chinese clothing patterns and drew three important conclusions.First,in traditional bane-shozoku,lions,mandarin ducks and bears are the most common elements of animal bane patterns.They serve both as decorative elements and symbols of their respective departments.Second,animal-themed bane patterns were once the main criterion for distinguishing between the left and right parts of Japanese dance and music.Until the Muromachi period,the two sides were unified into lion bane and the color of the ground became a the new standard for judgment.Third,bane patterns have similar aesthetic interests to Chinese textiles of the same period.On the one hand,in terms of composition,they all have circular pattern trajectories and circular skeletons.Due to ink folding being the main printing and dyeing method for bane-shozoku,early animal images were mainly portrayed by using animated and realistic line drawings,and later gradually transitioned into a linear structure.On the other hand,the lion pattern had already been used to adorn military officers’costumes and weapons as early as the Sui and Tang Dynasties.Bane-shozoku,exclusively designed for military officers,shares the same iden

关 键 词：舞乐服饰 蛮绘 蛮绘装束 团窠 狮纹 中日交流 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]