中国古代服装腰线位置的变迁  

Changes in the Waistline of Ancient Chinese Costumes

作　　者：李依洋 LI Yiyang(College of Arts and Design,Hebei Institute of Communications,Shijiazhuang 051430,China)

机构地区：[1]河北传媒学院美术与设计学院,河北石家庄051430

出　　处：《西部皮革》2023年第20期63-67,共5页West Leather

摘　　要：中国古代服饰在历史不同时期流变中,裁剪及穿着的腰线位置呈现出较大的变化,并且相较于现代流行服装而言具有特殊性。文章尝试以古代服装的腰线位置为切入点,分析各个中国古代各个时期腰线的特征及其成因。研究表明,中国古代服装流变中,男性服装腰线长期处于偏低的位置,其成因与古代相术观念引导的“富态”审美以及封建社会“官本位”的风气有关;女性服装的腰线则基于每个时期女性地位、社会风尚以及客观环境的变化,而呈现出不同的状态。以小见大,由服装腰线变化可窥得中国古代各类因素对人体审美之影响作用。In the evolution of ancient Chinese costumes in different periods of history,the cut and waistline position of wearing showed great changes,and compared with modern popular costumes,it has particularity.The article attempts to use the waistline position of ancient costumes as a starting point to analyze the characteristics and causes of the waistline in various periods of ancient China.The research shows that the waist line of male's costumes had been in a low position for a long time in the evolution of ancient Chinese costumes,which is related to the"rich"aesthetic guided by the ancient physiognography concept and the"official standard"atmosphere in feudal society.The waist line of female's costumes changed with the changes of female's status,social fashion and objective environment in each period.A drop of water hides a great ocean,from the changes in the waistline of the ancient costumes,we can see the influence of various factors on the aesthetics of the human body in ancient China.

关 键 词：古代服装 腰线 古代审美 服装流变 

分 类 号：K892.23[历史地理—民俗学] TS941.12[历史地理—历史学]