栀子黄植物染料及其染色真丝面料的鉴别  

Identification of gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabrics

作　　者：桂祖文 徐昊宁 陈海相[2] 余志成[1,2] 王磊[1,2] GUI Zuwen;XU Haoning;CHEN Haixiang;YU Zhicheng;WANG Lei(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;MOE Engineering Research Center for Eco-Dyeing&Finishing of Textiles,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学生态染整技术教育部工程研究中心,杭州310018

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2023年第6期1-8,共8页Advanced Textile Technology

基　　金：浙江理工大学柯桥研究院项目(KYY2021002C)。

摘　　要：栀子黄植物染料因色光靓丽、性能优良而被广泛应用于纺织品的染色印花,但目前市场上还没有规范的检测方法及标准对其进行鉴别;为填补植物染标准体系的缺失,现需要建立对栀子黄植物染系列产品的鉴别方法和标准。文章通过紫外分光光度计对鉴别栀子黄植物染料的标志物进行了确定,并采用液质联用仪对栀子黄植物染料及其染色真丝面料上萃取的染料进行了鉴别。结果表明:藏红花素Ⅰ、藏红花酸可以作为鉴别栀子黄植物染料及其染色真丝面料的标志物。栀子黄植物染料的质谱中检测到分子离子峰m z=975.3472和m z=327.1553,保留时间分别为0.61 min和1.38 min;染色真丝面料萃取液的质谱中检测到分子离子峰m z=975.396和m z=327.1489,保留时间分别为0.61 min和1.38 min;两者均与藏红花素Ⅰ标准品0.61 min和藏红花酸标准品1.36 min的出峰时间相近,在标准允许的±2.5%偏差范围内,由此可确定该染料和染色真丝面料为栀子黄植物染料及其染色真丝面料。In recent years,with the improvement of people's awareness of environmental protection,ecological textiles have been increasingly favored by people.Because of their non-toxic,biodegradable and other characteristics,plant dyes are widely used to study the dyeing and printing of textiles.Dyeing and printing with plant dyes can not only reduce the harm of dyes to the human body and make full use of natural renewable resources,but also greatly reduce the toxicity of printing and dyeing wastewater,playing a role in protecting the environment indirectly.At present,the development and utilization of plant dyes is under the active exploration and research,and the plant dye demonstration system engineering has been launched officially.In order to fill the deficiency of the world plant dye standard system,and lay a solid foundation for China to lead the development of the global plant dye industry,it is necessary to establish the identification methods and standards of plant dye series of products.In order to ensure the quality of plant dyeing products on the market,crack down on fake and shoddy products,and standardize market operation,so that consumers can rest assured and buy satisfactory plant dyeing products,it is very important to identify the corresponding vegetable dyes and dyeing textiles.In order to identify plant dyes and their dyed textiles,this paper takes gardenia yellow plant dyes and dyed silk fabrics as the research objects.Firstly,the gardenia yellow plant dyes were tested by ultraviolet spectrophotometer,and the markers of gardenia yellow plant dyes were indentified by combining with the descriptions in the literature.Then the markers,gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabric extract were detected by using liquid mass combination instrument under negative ion mode.By comparing the retention time and mass spectrometry of the dyes,dyed silk fabric extract and the dyed silk fabric,whether the dye and fabric were gardenia yellow plant dye and its dyed silk fabric was determined.The results showed

关 键 词：栀子黄植物染料 真丝 藏红花素Ⅰ 藏红花酸 鉴别 

分 类 号：TS193.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]