织物悬垂性能的各向差异性研究  

Research onfabric draping anisotropy

作　　者：宋委娜 刘成霞[1,2] SONG Weina;LIU Chengxia(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Provincial Engineering Laboratory of Fashion Digital Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学服装数字化技术浙江省工程实验室,杭州310018

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2023年第6期160-166,共7页Advanced Textile Technology

基　　金：浙江省自然科学基金项目(LY20E050017);国家自然科学基金项目(51405446)。

摘　　要：为研究织物悬垂性能的各向差异性,对传统的伞式测量法进行改进。选取15种常见织物,采用XDP-1织物悬垂仪对织物0°、90°、45°和135°4个方向的悬垂性进行测试并获取悬垂图像;基于所得图像提出最大展宽、投影面积和悬垂系数3个新指标;最后分析织物各向悬垂性与弯曲长度和抗弯刚度的关系。结果发现:这3个新指标与弯曲长度和抗弯刚度均具有较好的相关性;织物硬挺的方向易形成波峰,柔软的方向易形成波谷,织物某方向的悬垂性越好,越易弯曲,该方向的抗弯能力越小。这表明通过一块圆形试样的悬垂投影可以预估织物某方向的弯曲性能,利用改进的伞式法可以测量织物悬垂性能的各向差异性。The draping of fabrics is mostly tested without distinguishing between directions,angenerally,the overall draping is researched.However,the same fabric has significant differences in draping due to different warp and weft yarn densities or distinct fabric structures.Therefore,researching the draping of different directions is necessary.To study the differences of fabric drape performance at different directions,the traditional method of umbrella-shaped measurement was improved in this study.First,15 common fabrics were chosen,XDP-1 fabric drape tester was used to test the draping performance in the four directions of 0°,90°,45°,and 135°,and drape images were obtained.Based on the obtained images,new indexes were extracted:the maximum width,projected area and drape coefficient,and the relationship between fabric drape indexes in all directions and bending length and bending stiffness was analyzed.The maximum widening L,projected area S and drape coefficient D are compared with the bending length and bending stiffness in the four directions.Results show that the new indicators have high correlation with both the bending length and bending stiffness,with a high correlation at a significance level of 0.01,and the three new indicators are positively correlated with the bending length and bending stiffness.The harder the fabric,the greater its maximum widening and projection area.In other words,the poorer the drape of the fabric,the less prone it is to bending,and the greater its ability to resist bending deformation.The equation between the projected area and bending length is a linear function:Y=0.482X_(1)+2.759,R^(2)=0.71,where Y represents the bending length(mm)and X_(1) represents the projected area(cm^(2)).And the equation between the drape coefficient and bending length is a cubic function:Y=0.180X_(2)+10.272,R^(2)=0.70,where Y is the bending length(mm)and X_(2) is the drape coefficient(%).Then,based on the umbrella method,the anisotropy of fabric drape is analyzed and two indicators are extracted:the maximu

关 键 词：织物 悬垂系数 最大展宽 投影面积 悬垂性 弯曲性 

分 类 号：TS102.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]