周代华夏族贵族阶层男性婚服类型辨析  

Analysis on the types of male wedding clothes for Huaxia noble class in the Zhou dynasty

作　　者：李轶潇 吴波[1] LI Yixiao;WU Bo(Academy of Arts&Design,Tsinghua University,Beijing 100084)

机构地区：[1]清华大学美术学院,北京100084

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2023年第5期62-69,共8页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(2021BG02069);江浙沪高校博物馆馆藏清代苏绣服饰研究(21BG124)。

摘　　要：针对周代华夏族贵族阶层男性婚服类型的问题,结合相关历史文献和图绘资料,对周代华夏族上层社会的男性婚服进行了推导和梳理。结果表明:从文化背景和形成条件的角度,婚服是在周代逐步完善且在儒家思想影响之下逐渐构建而成的一种礼仪服饰文化,其形成和发展与当时的冠服制度和祭祀文化息息相关;从服饰类型的角度,周代华夏族贵族阶层的男性要依据其身份地位服用不同样式的婚服,士以上阶层亲迎时身穿冕服,头戴冕冠,足蹬赤舄,其身衣纹样和冕冠旒数随穿着者身份等级递增;而士人新婿则着爵弁服行礼,头戴爵弁,足配纁屦,其衣身并无章彩。Aiming at the problem of the types of male wedding dresses for Huaxia noble class,the male wedding dress of the upper class of Huaxia nationality in Zhou dynasty was deduced and sort out by combining relevant historical documents and graphic materials.The results show that in terms of cultural background and formation conditions,wedding dress is a ceremonial clothing culture that was gradually improved during the Zhou dynasty under the influence of Confucianism,of which formation and development were closely related to the ancient dressing system and sacrificial culture at that time;In terms of clothing types,it explains that men from the aristocratic class of the Huaxia ethnic group in the Zhou dynasty used different styles of wedding dresses based on their identity and status.The upper class of ancient scholar-bureaucrat generally wear Mianfu,with crowns and red shoes in the wedding ceremony.The patterns of clothing and the number of hanging bead strings on the crowns increase as the wearer′s identity level increases;The new bridegroom belonging to the scholar-bureaucrat class often wears Juebianfu,with a ceremonial hat and ceremonial shoes,whose clothes are not adorned with any decorations.

关 键 词：男性婚服 华夏族 爵弁服 冕服 足服 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]