东风西渐:中国民族民间服饰在海外的收藏、传播及文化影响——以美国公共文化机构藏品、图像为中心  

Eastern Style Spread to the West:The Collection,Dissemination,and Cultural Influence of Chinese Ethnic and Folk Clothing Abroad——Based on the Collections and Images from Public Cultural Institutions in United States

作　　者：肖宇强 Xiao Yuqiang

机构地区：[1]中山大学中国非物质文化遗产研究中心、中国语言文学系 [2]湖南女子学院美术与设计学院

出　　处：《艺术传播研究》2023年第4期101-116,共16页Journal of Art Communication

基　　金：国家社科基金重大项目“海外藏珍稀中国民俗文献与文物资料整理、研究暨数据库建设”(编号:16ZDA163)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：近代以来,受“西风东渐”的影响,我国服饰的形制、风格均发生了很大变化,学界对此进行的研究亦较多。然而在海外,中国传统服饰文化也对西方民众的穿戴及审美观念产生了一定影响,这可视为“东风西渐”的一种表现。以美国收藏的中国民族民间服饰为考察对象,根据相关文化机构举办的主题展览、文化交流活动和各类影像的记录,并借助西方设计师从中国传统服饰元素中汲取灵感所作的创新设计案例,能窥见我国民族民间服饰文化在海外的传播与接受状况。在新时代,中国民族民间服饰亦可通过外交、经贸、文化交流、教育宣传等形式进一步向海外推广、传播,在实现其文化传承与创新功能的基础上,提升中华优秀传统文化的国际影响力。Since modern times,under the influence of the“westward wind spreading to the east”,the shape and style of traditional Chinese clothing have undergone significant changes,and the academic community has con⁃ducted more research on it.However,Chinese clothing culture has also had a certain impact on the clothing and aesthetic concepts of Western people,which can also be seen as a manifestation of the“eastern style spread to the west”.Taking the Chinese ethnic and folk clothing collected in American as the research object,based on theme exhibitions,cultural exchange activities,and records of different images held by relevant cultural institu⁃tions,and with the help of innovative design cases inspired by Western designers from traditional Chinese cloth⁃ing elements,we can glimpse the dissemination and acceptance of Chinese ethnic and folk clothing culture over⁃seas.In the new era,Chinese ethnic folk costume can also be further promoted and spread overseas through di⁃plomacy,economic and trade,cultural exchanges,educational propaganda and other forms,so as to enhance the international influence of Chinese excellent traditional culture on the basis of cultural inheritance and innova⁃tion.

关 键 词：中国民族民间服饰 公共文化机构 文化传播 东风西渐 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]