基于解构主义的针织毛衫设计与分析  

Design and Analysis of Knitted Sweater Based on Deconstruction

作　　者：马春艳[1] Ma Chunyan(School of Art,Northeast Agricultural University,Harbin,Heilongjiang g 150030,China)

机构地区：[1]东北农业大学艺术学院,黑龙江哈尔滨150030

出　　处：《针织工业》2023年第10期56-60,共5页Knitting Industries

基　　金：黑龙江省艺术科学规划项目(2023B111)。

摘　　要：文章首先从解构主义的拆解与重组、立体造型特征以及分割线的使用等方面,分析服装解构主义设计常用方法;然后对针织毛衫的解构设计方法进行分析,重点研究针织纬编组织变化、针织面料叠加、编织密度变化以及针织物特有的脱散性和边缘卷边性等方面的解构设计;最后根据针织毛衫的流行趋势,基于解构主义理念,设计4款男式针织毛衫。研究认为,现代针织设备的不断完善与横机纬编技术的提升,为针织毛衫的设计创新提供了可能,解构主义针织毛衫的个性、另类风格与毛衫消费的传统观念在不断融合,并成为一种时代趋势和消费需求。This paper first analyzes the common deconstruction design methods of clothing from the aspects of the disassembly and reorganization of deconstruction,three-dimensional modeling characteristics and the use of dividing lines.Then it analyzes the deconstruction design method for knitted sweater,focusing on the deconstruction design of knitted structure change,knitted fabric superposition,knitting density change and the unique unroving and curling properties of knitted fabric.Finally,based on the deconstruction and the trend of sweaters,four men’s sweaters are designed.It suggests that the improvement of modern knitting equipment and weft knitting technology provides possibility for knitting sweater design innovation.The personality and alternative style of deconstructed knitted sweater and the traditional concept of sweater consumption in constant fusion become a trend and consumer demand.

关 键 词：解构主义 针织毛衫 解构设计 创新设计 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]