北齐、唐代袍服局部装饰织物源流研究  

A Study on the Origin of Local Decoration on the Robes of the Northern Qi and Tang Dynasties

作　　者：吕千云 赵其旺 Lyu Qianyun;Zhao Qiwang

机构地区：[1]上海大学上海美术学院,上海200444 [2]上海城建职业学院建筑与环境艺术学院,上海201415

出　　处：《中国国家博物馆馆刊》2023年第10期63-75,共13页Journal of National Museum of China

基　　金：上海市哲学社会科学规划一般课题“两汉至西晋时期院落模型明器的发展衍变研究”(项目批准号:2020BLS008)资助。

摘　　要：唐代流行在袍服之领部、袖口、衣襟等部位用织物作为装饰,此服饰习俗亦见于中亚粟特壁画,二者应关系密切。通过图像对比研究,本文首先指出此习俗在北齐时即已出现,且多在衣袖上臂部位进行装饰,同时也用联珠纹织物装饰袍服边缘;通过梳理中亚壁画、粟特金银器,以及入华粟特人石葬具图像,文章又进一步研究粟特袍服局部装饰织物的风格、部位、流行概况及其向东传播的过程。此外,吐蕃、回鹘袍服此类装饰习俗的粟特渊源,也在文中进行论证。It was popular in the Tang dynasty to decorate the collar,sleeves,lapels,and other parts of the robe with fabrics such as brocade.This practice is also found in the Sogdian frescoes in Central Asia.It is reasonable to speculate that the two decors have close connections.Through image comparison,this paper finds that this custom had already appeared in the Northern Qi dynasty.The decors usually appear on the arm area of the robe,and the edge of the garment is decorated with a jointed bead brocade.To further study the style,location,and popularity of the local decoration of Sogdian robes as well as the process of its spread to the east,this paper combed Central Asian wall paintings,Sogdian gold and silver artifacts,and images of Sogdian stone funerary objects in China.Images related to arm area decoration were also systematically collected and studied.In addition,the Sogdian origin of such decoration in Tubo and Uygur robes is discussed in this paper.

关 键 词：北齐 袍服饰锦 衣袖上臂部位装饰 粟特服饰 吐蕃 回鹘 

分 类 号：TS941.3[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K239.24[历史地理—历史学] K242[历史地理—中国史] K87