基于折纸技法的针织褶裥设计与开发  

Design and Development of Knitted Pleat Based on Origami Technique

作　　者：陈雅卓 张冉 蒋惠敏 沙莎 CHEN Yazhuo;ZHANG Ran;JIANG Huimin;SHA Sha(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan430073,China;Design Innovation and Fiber Science Institute of Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学设计创新与纤维科学研究院,湖北武汉430073

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2023年第11期44-49,共6页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：市科技局支持专项(2022013988065214);校地合作项目(20220602);武汉纺织服装数字化工程技术研究中心开放课题(0100000);武汉纺织大学研究生创新基金(52300200101)。

摘　　要：通过分析折纸工艺的表现技法,以折纸技法中典型的谷形折叠法与山形折叠法为灵感,探讨褶裥组织中褶脊的塑造方法。将折纸技法归纳为规范折叠、环状结构折叠、V形折叠3类,依照不同技法类型开发出不同造型的织片,借此分析折纸技法与针织褶裥造型的共通性,论述折纸技法在针织物中的转换方式及技术要点,总结褶裥工艺的形成方式。结合移圈、分针补洞、翻针等技术探索能够表现出折纸工艺特征的四平抽针、正反针、罗纹、纬平针及添纱等组织结构,对古老手工折纸技艺与针织织物设计进行融合与创新。Through analyzing the performance techniques of origami and taking the typical valley folding method and mountain folding method in origami technique as the inspiration,the shaping method of pleat ridges in pleat tissues was discussed.The origami techniques were summarized into three categories:the standard folding,the ring structure folding and the V-shaped folding,while the weaving pieces of related modeling were developed according to different techniques.The commonality of origami techniques and knitted pleat modeling was analyzed,the conversion method and technical points of origami techniques in knitted fabrics were discussed,while the formation of pleat process was summarized.The organizational structures such as four-level drawing needle,positive and negative needle,rib,weft plain needle and yarn adding which could show the characteristics of origami process were explored by combining the techniques of moving ring,dividing needle to fill hole and turning needle,so as to integrate and innovate the ancient manual origami technique and knitted fabric design.

关 键 词：折纸技法 立体结构 针织工艺 褶裥组织 

分 类 号：TS184.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]