棉/黏/涤仿天丝产品的开发  

Development of cotton/viscose/polyester imitation Tencel products

作　　者：马金星 杨朝兵 张劲峰 MA Jinxing;YANG Zhaobing;ZHANG Jinfeng(Shaoxing Shuixiang Textile Technology Co.Ltd.,Shaoxing 312030,China;Zhejiang Yuexin Dyeing&Printing Co.Ltd.,Shaoxing 312072,China;Shaoxing Fuheng Textile Technology Co.Ltd.,Shaoxing 312030,China)

机构地区：[1]绍兴水乡纺织科技有限公司,浙江绍兴312030 [2]浙江越新印染有限公司,浙江绍兴312072 [3]绍兴孚亨纺织科技有限公司,浙江绍兴312030

出　　处：《染整技术》2023年第11期18-21,共4页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

摘　　要：为了开发仿天丝面料,经纱采用涤纶单孔丝,纬纱采用棉/黏/混纺纱。经过短流程一浴法染色、酵洗、压皱处理和罐蒸等,得到优化工艺为:压皱温度190℃、罐蒸温度110℃。经测试,织物的耐摩擦色牢度为3~4级、耐水色牢度为3~4级、瞬间凉感值为0.211 W/cm^(2)、芯吸高度为98 mm、蒸发速率为1.35 g/h、透湿量为810 g/(m^(2)·d)、滴水扩散时间为0.9 s,各项指标接近天丝面料。In order to develop imitation tencel fabrics,polyester single hole yarn is used for warp yarn and cotton adhesive blended yarn is used for weft yarn.After short process of one bath dyeing,fermentation washing,wrinkling treat⁃ment,and pot steaming,the optimized process was obtained with wrinkling temperature of 190℃and pot steaming temper⁃ature of 110℃.After testing,the fabric has color fastness to friction of 3-4 levels,color fastness to water of 3-4 levels,in⁃stantaneous cooling value of 0.211 W/cm^(2),wicking height of 98 mm,evaporation rate of 1.35 g/h,moisture permeability of 810 g/(m^(2)∙d),and drip diffusion time of 0.9 s.All indicators are close to those of Tencel fabric.

关 键 词：仿天丝 压皱 短流程染色 罐蒸 

分 类 号：TS195.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]