无染色羊绒双层精纺面料的设计与工艺  

Design and technology of non dyed cashmere double layer worsted fabric

作　　者：周佳莹 聂文山 王利平[1] ZHOU Jiaying;NIE Wenshan;WANG Liping(College of Light Industry and Textile,Inner Mongolia University of Technology,Hohhot,Inner Mongolia 010080,China;Inner Mongolia King Deer Cashmere Co.,Ltd.,Baotou,Inner Mongolia 014040,China)

机构地区：[1]内蒙古工业大学轻工与纺织学院,内蒙古呼和浩特010080 [2]内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司,内蒙古包头014040

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2023年第11期12-16,共5页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为了拓展企业的产品结构,顺应绿色设计趋势,贯彻环保理念,设计生产出满足新时代纺织品创新设计需求的面料。选择具有天然色彩、后续不需要进行染色处理的40%青羊绒和60%紫羊绒作为原材料,对精纺面料的精梳工序、纺纱工序、织造工序、后整理工序的全流程工艺参数进行设计,试纺线密度为12.5 tex、捻度为424捻/m、纤维长度为40.4 mm、细度为16.92μm的高线密度纱线,设计并织造无染色接结双层组织结构的精纺羊绒面料,该面料质地轻薄,柔软细腻,附加值高,满足消费者的需求,符合低碳、绿色、可持续发展的要求,有效促进企业的产品结构转型升级,提升企业的品牌价值。In order to expand the product structure,comply with the trend of green design,carry out the concept of environmental protection,design and produce fabrics to meet the innovative design needs of textiles in the new era.40%green cashmere and 60%purple cashmere with natural color and no subsequent dyeing treatment were selected as raw materials,the whole process parameters of combing,spinning,weaving and finishing of worsted fabrics were designed,the worsted cashmere fabric with non-dyed jointed double-layer structure was designed and woven by spinning high-thread-density yarn with yarn density of 12.5 tex,twist of 424 twist/m,fiber length of 40.4 mm and fineness of 16.92μm,the fabric is light and thin,soft and delicate,high added value,not only meet the needs of consumers,but also meet the requirements of low-carbon,green and sustainable development,effectively promote the transformation and upgrading of the product structure of the enterprise,enhance the brand value of the enterprise.

关 键 词：羊绒纤维 精纺 双层组织 面料设计 工艺参数 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]