光纤反射光谱技术无损鉴别天然染料  

Nondestructive identification of natural dyes by fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy

作　　者：曹影影 管杰 杨金泉 管若琳 李永固 金鉴梅 刘剑[1,5] CAO Yingying;GUAN Jie;YANG Jinquan;GUAN Ruolin;LI Yonggu;JIN Jianmei;LIU Jian(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Confucius Museum,Qufu 273199,China;Basic Research Center for Cultural Relics Protection Science,University of Science and Technology of China,Hefei 230026,China;College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310012,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院,杭州310018 [2]孔子博物馆,山东曲阜273199 [3]中国科学技术大学文物保护科学基础研究中心,合肥230026 [4]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [5]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310012

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第12期51-58,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家重点研发计划课题项目(2019YFC1520302)。

摘　　要：通过鉴别古代服饰中的染料能够为纺织品文物的色彩复原和颜色保护提供理论依据。文章采用光纤反射光谱技术获得8种天然染料(红花、苏木、栀子、姜黄、槐米、黄栌、黄檗和靛青)的吸收光谱图,对每一种染料的吸收光谱作出相应的一阶导数图。通过对比明代红纱地绣仙鹤方补袍与染料参考品的吸收光谱图和一阶导数图以鉴别文物使用的天然染料种类。结果表明,明代红纱地绣仙鹤方补袍中的红色纱线由红花和黄檗染制,黄色纱线由槐米染制,蓝色纱线由靛青染制,绿色纱线为槐米和靛青套染获得。Most of the natural dyes used in ancient times were plant dyes,with rich varieties,and the dyed colors were also very rich.In the Ming Dynasty,the ancients had mastered the basic process of dyeing,and the techniques of direct dyeing and mordant dyeing,as well as single dyeing and mixed dyeing,were also very mature.Various kinds of natural dyes and their dyeing methods were recorded in ancient books such as Heavenly Creations and Compendium of Materia Medica.For example,Heavenly Creations recorded the dyeing methods for colors such as bean green,wood red and purple,while Compendium of Materia Medica recorded that gardenia,turmeric,pagoda tree flower,young fustic and amur-cork tree alone can be used for yellow dyeing.Identifying the dyes in cultural relics can provide a theoretical basis for color recovery and color protection of textile relics,and promote the understanding of clothing quality and color standards at that time.To identify the natural dyes used in mandarin square robe with cranes embroidered on the red yarn ground in the Ming Dynasty,and to identify the botanical origin of the dyes,we used a non-destructive testing method,fiber-optic reflectance spectroscopy,to identify the dyes in the cultural relic.First,eight dyes(safflower,sappanwood,gardenia,turmeric,pagoda tree flower,young fustic,amur-cork tree,and indigo)frequently mentioned in ancient books of the Ming Dynasty were used to prepare reference materials for dyeing silk.Then,the absorption spectra of the dyed silk reference materials were obtained by using FORS technology,and the corresponding first-order derivative eigenvalues were made to obtain the maximum absorption wavelengths and first-order derivative eigenvalue positions in the spectra.Finally,we identified the dyes by comparing the differences in the absorption spectra and first-order derivative eigenvalues obtained from dyed silk reference materials and mandarin square robe with cranes embroidered on the red yarn ground in the Ming Dynasty.We detailed the maximum value of the absorptio

关 键 词：染料鉴别 FORS 无损分析 天然染料 明代服饰 染色工艺 

分 类 号：TS193.62[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程] TQ611[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]