基于1920—1940年月份牌广告中旗袍的造型嬗变研究  

Study on the shape evolution of cheongsams in calendar posters during 1920-1940

作　　者：李惠 苏子涵 夏雨微 刘安定 LI Hui;SU Zihan;XIA Yuwei;LIU Anding(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430200,China;School of Media&Communication,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430200,China;Textile Culture Research Center,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430200,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430200 [2]武汉纺织大学传媒学院,武汉430200 [3]武汉纺织大学纺织文化研究中心,武汉430200

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第12期146-154,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学艺术学项目(2020BG03720)。

摘　　要：针对1920—1940年旗袍造型变迁问题,文章基于月份牌广告中的图像信息,采用图像视读、文献研究及设计还原的方法,分析其种类、发展规律及成因。研究表明:1)月份牌广告中1920—1940年的旗袍发展主要经历了马甲旗袍、及膝旗袍、扫地旗袍与改良旗袍几种形态。2)月份牌广告中旗袍造型变迁与当时经济发展、国际时装及西式内衣的普及都存在一定联系,尤其是20世纪30年代的改良旗袍与这些因素关联最为深刻。3)此期间旗袍发展得益于月份牌广告的宣传,旗袍造型的变化也为月份牌带来了更多创作素材,两者相辅相成。4)该时期月份牌广告中旗袍的发展是女性追求自身解放的结果,同时月份牌对女性解放具有引导作用。The calendar poster is a commercial art poster produced in Shanghai at the end of the 19 th century.Its painting themes are very rich,including landscape scenery,historical allusions,fashion beauty and so on.In the 1920s,the content of the calendar was mainly based on the image of women’s fashion,and the image of women wearing cheongsam was the most abundant and varied.Due to the real and delicate characteristics of the calendar poster,it is of great image value to study the changes in the shape of women’s cheongsams during 1920-1940 and the liberation of women’s body and mind during this period.We applied the combination of image analysis,literature research and design reconstruction and in-depth research on the development and changes in the styling of female cheongsams during 1920-1940,as well as the background reasons and drew three important conclusions.First,during 1920-1940,the shapes of the cheongsam in calendar posters mainly experienced the evolution of the vest cheongsam,the knee-length cheongsam,the over-length cheongsam and the improved cheongsam.The emergence of improved cheongsams not only marked a major change in the relationship between people and clothing in this period,but also determined the basic profile of modern women’s cheongsams.It can be seen from the development and changes of cheongsam shape from 1920 to 1940 that cheongsams evolved from the initially wide and straight waistcoat ones that covered women’s figures to the later form-fitting and improved ones that showed women’s body curves,which not only showed the major changes in women’s clothing during this period,but also was the most obvious external expression of women’s liberation.Second,the changes in the shape of women’s cheongsams from 1920 to 1940 were closely related to the economic development,the trend of international clothing and the change of women’s underwear at that time.Among them,the change of women’s underwear had the most profound impact on the change of cheongsam shapes.It is found that the ch

关 键 词：月份牌广告 1920—1940年 旗袍 款式特征 造型变迁 女性解放 

分 类 号：TS941.717.87[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]