基于样本分析的黔东南苗族帛锦绣与汉族铺绒绣比较研究  

A Comparative Study on Bojin Embroidery of Miao in Southeast Guizhou and Purong Embroidery Based on Sample Analysis

作　　者：吴圆 梁燕[1,2] 李安娜 WU Yuan;LIANG Yan;LI Anna(School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029;Faculty of Innovation and Design,City University of Macao,Macao 999078,china)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029 [2]澳门城市大学创新设计学院,中国澳门999078

出　　处：《工业工程设计》2023年第6期55-68,共14页INDUSTRIAL&ENGINEERING DESIGN

基　　金：2023年研究生教育质量提升专项(J2023-ZX07)。

摘　　要：基于现存刺绣样本,探究帛锦绣与铺绒绣这类具有高度相似性的刺绣技艺之间的关联性及差异。通过文献分析、样本比较分析等方法,对帛锦绣与铺绒绣的针法工艺、组合技法、应用载体、纹样题材与绣面风格、色彩搭配五个方面展开分析。总结了黔东南苗族帛锦绣与汉族铺绒绣之间存在极强的关联性,具体为,二者在针法技艺方面完全相同,形成的绣面几何图形大同小异;组合技法、应用载体、纹样造型和绣面风格、色彩搭配等方面既有相同点又有差别化。通过两种刺绣技艺比较,论证了民间刺绣技艺之间的跨文化互动性,在不同的地域环境、民俗生活等因素影响下,各技艺间产生了交流、融合、文化异化,从而形成本土典型的符号特征,最终与“被借鉴者”产生差异。Based on existing embroidery samples,this article explores the correlation between Bojin embroidery and Purong embroidery,which have a high degree of similarity,as well as the differences.The article conducts research and analysis on five aspects of two types of embroidery,including principle of embroidery technique,combination techniques,application carriers,pattern themes and embroidery style,and color matching,through literature analysis,sample comparison analysis,and other methods.It is included that there are strong correlation between Miao Bojin embroidery and Han Purong embroidery in southeast Guizhou.Specifically,they are completely the same in terms of needlework skills,with similar geometric shapes on the embroidery surface.Their combination techniques,application carriers,color matching,pattern design,and embroidery style are all similar except slight differences.The article compares two types of embroidery techniques and demonstrates that there is a strong cross-cultural interaction between folk embroidery techniques.Under the influence of different regional environments,folk life,and other conditions,the communication,integration,and cultural alienation occur,resulting in the formation of local typical symbolic characteristics and ultimately differences from the"modelled".

关 键 词：帛锦绣 铺绒绣 黔东南苗族 刺绣技艺比较 文化异化 

分 类 号：J502[艺术—艺术设计] J528[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] TS941