单向导湿纬编成形织物的结构设计及其性能  

Structural design and performance of unidirectional moisture-transfer weft-knitted forming fabrics

作　　者：丁玉琴 董智佳 丛洪莲 葛美彤 DING Yuqin;DONG Zhijia;CONG Honglian;GE Meitong(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2023年第11期83-89,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61902150)。

摘　　要：为了解决夏季运动服装穿着出汗后内层潮湿且黏腻的不适感,基于差动毛细效应,选用55.5 dtex(14 f)的涤纶作为地纱,搭配93.3 dtex(384 f)超细纤维涤纶以及92.2 dtex(72 f)常规涤纶作为面纱,应用圣东尼单面无缝机设计了5种不同结构的织物,研究和比较每种组织的单向导湿性能,以及不同结构织物的导湿规律。结果表明:93.3 dtex(384 f)纱线组得到的附加压力差大于92.2 dtex(72 f)纱线组,具有良好的单向导湿能力,水分管理评级均在3级以上;组织结构中,地纱和面纱均成圈的均匀结构数量越多,导湿效果越显著,因此,均匀结构数量多的组织适合配置于出汗量较多的区域;与均匀结构相比,地纱和面纱不全成圈的松散结构轻薄透气,适合配置于过渡区域。Objective Sweating during summer exercise can easily cause the human body to feel moist and sticky.Therefore,it is important to improve the moisture-wicking capability as well as the heat and humidity comfort of summer sportswear.Sweating and heat dissipation vary from part to part of the body,so different functional fabrics designed in different parts have great benefits for comfort.But the process of sewing fabrics with different characteristics at different positions is complicated and has low production efficiency.Therefore,seamless design and integrated positioning forming technology can be used.Method When the yarn density of the surface layer of the fabric was greater than the inner layer,the additional pressure of the surface layer was greater than that of the inner layer,and the moisture can move from the interior to the surface,which was called the differential capillary effect.Based on this effect,55.5 dtex(14 f)polyester was selected as the ground yarn,and 93.3 dtex(384 f)superfine fiber polyester yarn and 92.2 dtex(72 f)conventional polyester yarn were selected as the veils.Santoni seamless machine was adopted to design 5 different structures of fabrics,then the influence of different yarn types and structures on the fabric′s moisture-transfer was investigated.Results The graph of contact angle changes with time showed that among the three kinds of yarns,the liquid diffuses fastest in 93.3 dtex(384 f)yarns and slowest in 55.5 dtex(14 f)yarns(Fig.4).The wicking height experiment showed that the longitudinal wicking effect of the combination of 93.3 dtex(384 f)yarn and 55.5 dtex(14 f)ground yarn was more significant than that of 92.2 dtex(72 f)yarn(Tab.2).The difference between the liquid diffusion shape obtained from the drip diffusion experiment and the longitudinal and transverse wicking was consistent,indicating that the longitudinal diffusion effect of liquid in the fabric was better(Fig.5).The accumulative one-way transfer capacity in the MMT water management experiment was F1>F4>F3>F2>F5 from

关 键 词：纬编单面织物 成形结构 单向导湿 添纱组织 毛细效应 

分 类 号：TS186.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]