丹宁服装在中国发展演变解析  

Analysis On the Development and Evolution of Denim Clothing in China

作　　者：李京平 李斌 李强 LI Jingping;LI Bin;LI Qiang(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan,Hubei 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2023年第4期67-75,共9页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划项目(21YJA760032)。

摘　　要：牛仔服在中国的变迁研究没有引起过多关注,文章通过研究中国牛仔的发展演变,完善丹宁服装在中国的研究。文章运用文献研究与图像信息相互印证的研究方法。研究认为:中国悠久的蓝染、棉纺工艺为丹宁布在中国的流行奠定了一定的民众基础;丹宁布与丹宁服装是作为外来概念引入中国的,第二次世界大战时期中国就接触到西方牛仔服装,20世纪50年代开始生产“劳动布”,20世纪70年代劳动布成功转型为丹宁布,20世纪90年代以前中国牛仔服装属于萌芽阶段,20世纪90年代至2008年属于发展阶段,2008年以后开始转型;西方牛仔服在中国流行原因有三,一是丹宁布抢占了土布市场,二是中国民众穿着棉质蓝染土布制作的服装习惯为丹宁服装的流行奠定了民众基础,三是中国土布基础与丹宁服源自劳动阶层及其牛仔精神与中国民众的心理契合,同时也是世界时尚风向与品牌效应影响共同作用的结果。The study on the change of denim clothing in China has not attracted much attention.This paper improves the study on denim clothing in China by studying the development and evolution of Chinese denim.This paper uses the mutual verification research method of literature research and image information.The research shows that China’s long history of blue-dyeing and cotton spinning technology has laid a certain public foundation for the popularity of denim in China and that denim cloth and denim clothing were introduced into China as foreign concepts.During the Second World War,China came into contact with western denim clothing,and began to produce labor cloth in the 1950s.In the 1970s,the labor cloth was successfully transformed into denim cloth.Before the 1990s,Chinese denim clothing had been in the embryonic stage,and from the 1990s to 2008,it was in the development stage,and the transformation began after 2008.There are three reasons for the popularity of western jeans in China.First,denim cloth occupies the homespun fabric market.Second,Chinese people’s habit of wearing clothes made of cotton blue-dyed homespun cloth laid a public foundation for the popularity of denim clothes.Third,Chinese homespun fabric base and denim clothing are derived from the labor class and the psychological fit of the cowboy spirit and Chinese people,and also the result of the influence of the world fashion trend and brand effect.

关 键 词：中国丹宁 牛仔服 劳动布 蓝染土布 

分 类 号：J523.5[艺术—艺术设计]