新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用(IV)——多重乳液  

New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics(IV)Multiple emulsion

作　　者：赵娜 鲁梁玉 尚亚卓[2] Na Zhao;Liangyu Lu;Yazhuo Shang(Hangzhou Enhe Biotechnology Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310020,China;Laboratory of Cosmetics,School of Chemistry&Molecular Engineering,East China University of Science and Technology,Shanghai 200237,China)

机构地区：[1]杭州恩和生物科技有限公司,浙江杭州310020 [2]华东理工大学化学与分子工程学院化妆品研究室,上海200237

出　　处：《日用化学工业（中英文）》2023年第12期1369-1376,共8页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金(2022ZFJH04,222201717003)。

摘　　要：多重乳液是一种乳状液(水包油型乳液或油包水型乳液)分散于另外一种连续相(油相或水相)中形成的水包油型乳液和油包水型乳液共存的复杂体系。多重乳液不但兼具了水包油型乳液和油包水型乳液的优势,而且具有独特的“三相两膜”的结构,使其在化妆品、医药、食品、材料等领域中展现出广阔的应用前景。本文首先介绍了多重乳液及其制备方法,总结了影响多重乳液稳定性的因素;概括了多重乳液在化妆品领域的应用优势,包括对功效成分的保护、隔离、缓释、促渗等。在此基础上,阐述了多重乳液在化妆品领域的研究现状,并对目前已报道的特殊多重乳液进行了介绍。最后,对现阶段多重乳液在化妆品领域实际应用中存在的问题及后续应该研究的重点及方向提出了个人看法,旨在为性能优异的多重乳在化妆品领域的实际应用提供依据,也为性能优异的化妆品的开发及活性成分的有效应用提供参考。Multiple emulsion is a complex system in which an emulsion(oil-in-water emulsion or water-inoil emulsion)is dispersed in another continuous phase(oil phase or water phase).The coexistence of oil-in-water emulsion(O/W)and water-in-oil emulsion(W/O)endows multiple emulsion not only the advantages of both,but also the unique structure of“three-phase and two-membrane”.Multiple emulsions have shown a broad application prospect in the fields of cosmetics,medicine,food,materials,etc..In this review,multiple emulsions and their preparation methods were introduced,and the factors affecting the stability of multiple emulsions were summarized.The advantages of application of multiple emulsions in the field of cosmetics were introduced,including the embedding and multiple protective effects,the sustained-release property,and the penetration-enhancing effect.On this basis,the research status of multiple emulsions in cosmetic field was reviewed,and the special multiple emulsions were also introduced.Finally,the personal views on the problems of multiple emulsions in practical application were put forward,which might provide some necessary reference for the application of multiple emulsions and provide useful information both for the effective application of active ingredients and the development of cosmetic products with excellent performance.

关 键 词：多重乳 三相两膜 化妆品 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]