以皮塑为基础的服装立体空间表达探究  

Research on the Three-dimensional Expression of Garment based on Leather Sculpture

作　　者：龚心悦 姚云鹤[1,2,3,4] 谷婷薇 郑双 GONG Xinyue;YAO Yunhe;GU Tingwei;ZHENG Shuang(College of Biomass Science and Engineering,Sichuan University,Chengdu,610065,China;Key Laboratory of Leather Chemistry and Engineering of Ministry of Education,Sichuan University,Chengdu,610065,China;National Engineering Laboratory for Clean Technology of Leather Manufacture,Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China;Research Institutes of Leather and Footwear Industry of Wenzhou,Wenzhou 325000,China)

机构地区：[1]四川大学轻工科学与工程学院,四川成都610065 [2]四川大学皮革化学与工程教育部重点实验室,四川成都610065 [3]四川大学制革清洁技术国家工程实验室,四川成都610065 [4]温州鞋革产业研究院,浙江温州325000

出　　处：《皮革科学与工程》2024年第1期88-92,共5页Leather Science and Engineering

基　　金：鞋革产业共性关键技术攻关及应用研究(2021WZSLCQ01)。

摘　　要：随着服饰消费市场的个性化需求日益增长,皮革服装设计愈发多元化。文章基于皮革面料良好的可塑性与天然材质优势,围绕服装立体空间的探索,结合皮塑工艺技法进行一系列设计实践。根据实验结果发现,在底膜塑形中,可塑树脂适用于小面积、小体积、细节较少的形态,水性雕塑泥则适合大面积、大体积塑形;在皮革选材方面,厚植鞣山羊皮适用于大面积的简洁、硬挺造型;而略薄的植鞣山羊皮更易于塑造大弧度的曲线造型;软而薄的铬鞣绵羊皮在完成复杂的造型结构方面有明显优势。经塑形处理后的皮革可以满足服装空间塑造所需条件,其优良的性能与质感对皮塑服装的空间设计表达大有助益。With the increasing personalized demand in the garment consumption market,leather garment design is becoming increasingly diversified.Based on the excellent plasticity of leather fabrics and the advantages of natural materials,a series of practical explorations were carried out by exploring the three-dimensional space of garment and combining the leather sculpture technology.According to the experimental results,it is found that in the sculpture molding,sculpture resin is suitable for the small area,small volume,and less detailed forms,while the water-based sculpture clay is suitable for the large area and large volume shaping.In terms of leather material selection,the thick vegetable-tanned goatskin is suitable for the large area of simple and stiff styling;the slightly thinner vegetable-tanned goatskin is easier to shape the curve of large curvature;the soft and thin sheepskin has obvious advantages in completing complex structures.After the shaping treatment,the resulting leather can meet the requirements for clothing space shaping,and its excellent performance and texture are greatly beneficial for the three-dimensional expression of leather sculpture garment.

关 键 词：皮革 皮塑 服装空间 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]