古代染料及其分析检测技术  

Ancient dyes and their analysis and detection technologies

作　　者：高素芸 李永固 寿晨超 郭丹华 刘剑[1,3] GAO Suyun;LI Yonggu;SHOU Chenchao;GUO Danhua;LIU Jian(Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Museum of Natural History,Hangzhou 310014,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江自然博物院,浙江杭州310014 [3]中国丝绸博物馆,浙江杭州310002

出　　处：《文物保护与考古科学》2023年第6期164-171,共8页Sciences of Conservation and Archaeology

摘　　要：纺织品考古具有百年历史,但纺织品科技考古是一个新兴的研究领域。其中,古代染料的分析检测可以提供天然染料的来源、相关染色方法,甚至纺织品文物的生产地点和时间等重要信息,从而为古代文物的修复和保护提供科学依据,且有助于了解古代纺织服饰的色彩文化。古代染料按颜色分可分为红色系染料、蓝色系染料和黄色系染料等,其中:红色系染料中植物染料较为常见的有红花、苏木和茜草等,动物染料主要有南美胭脂虫、克玫兹胭脂虫和紫胶虫等;蓝色系染料一般为靛青,主要从含靛植物中获得,中国历史上使用的含靛植物主要有马蓝、木蓝、蓼蓝和菘蓝;黄色系染料主要包括黄栌、槐米、黄檗和姜黄等。目前,用于古代染料分析检测的方法主要有光纤反射光谱(FORS)、荧光光谱(FS)、高效液相色谱-质谱联用(HPLC-MS)和表面增强拉曼光谱(SERS)技术等,这些方法具有各自特点,为纺织品文物上天然染料的研究提供了科学支持。Textile archaeology has a history of about one hundred years,but textile archaeometry is a new research field,among which,the analysis and detection of ancient dyes can provide important information such as the sources of natural dyes,related dyeing methods,and even the production locations and time of textile relics,so as to provide a scientific basis for the restoration and conservation of ancient cultural relics,and to help us understand the color culture of ancient textiles and clothing.According to the color,ancient dyes can be divided into red,blue and yellow dyes.In red dyes,the more common plant dyes are Carthamus tinctorius L.,Caesalpinia sappan L.and Rubia cordifolia L.;the animal dyes are Dactylopius coccus Costa,Kermes vermillio and Kerria lacca.The blue dye,usually indigo,is mainly obtained from indigo-containing plants,and Strobilanthes cusia,Indigofera tinctoria,Polygonum tinctorium and Isatis tinctoria are among those which were used historically in China.Yellow dyes mainly include Cotinus coggygria Scop.,Sophora japonica Linn.,Phellodendron amurense Rupr.and Curcuma longa L.At present,the methods used for analysis and detection of ancient dyes mainly include fiber optic reflectance spectrometry(FORS),fluorescence spectrometry(FS),high performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry(HPLC-MS)and surface-enhanced Raman spectrometry(SERS).These methods have their own characteristics,providing scientific support for the study of natural dyes from textile relics.

关 键 词：古代染料 纺织品 分析 检测 

分 类 号：K854.2[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]