阿斯塔那169号墓“联珠双凤锦复面”名称考辨  

Examining the name of the“brocaded face cover of the pearl-linked double phoenix pattern”from Tomb 169 in Astana

作　　者：郭丰秋 夏雨航 GUO Fengqiu;XIA Yuhang(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;College of Art and Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学艺术与设计学院,武汉430073

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第1期139-147,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：湖北省服饰与艺术文化研究中心一般项目(2022HFG09)。

摘　　要：新疆吐鲁番阿斯塔那169号墓出土的“联珠双凤锦复面”(72TAM169:34)以联珠为骨架,以对鸟为主纹样,兼具孔雀、朱雀和凤鸟形意特征。学界关于该“复面”的命名存在深入探讨、商榷的空间。文章利用出土文献、实物图像资料,分析复面背后的社会文化背景、复面使用者的身份和信仰、复面纹样构成要素之间的文化联系,梳理孔雀、朱雀与凤鸟形意的变迁与融合历程,推测复面的产地,并且与中亚、中原出土实物图像进行纵向、横向对比,将其定名为“联珠孔雀形对凤纹锦面衣”,认为该面衣是丝绸之路上儒家文化与佛教文化、道教文化、祆教文化交融的产物。The clothing patterns unearthed in the ancient tomb complex of Astana in Turfan,Xinjiang,especially the“peal-linked pattern”originating from the Sassanid Persian Dynasty,are colorful.Animal images such as lions and elephants are relatively easy to be recognized,but it is very difficult to name bird images.The“brocaded face cover of peal-linked double phoenix pattern”(72TAM169:34)unearthed from Tomb 169 in Astana has the peal-linked pattern as its skeleton and pairs of birds as its main motifs,so it is characterized by peacocks,vermilion birds,and phoenixes.There is room for further discussion and debate in the academic community about the naming of this“face cover”.On the basis of discussing the naming rules of clothing patterns,this paper renamed the“face cover”.With the help of historical,cultural and graphical research methods,the social and cultural background of this“brocaded face cover of peal-linked double phoenix pattern”unearthed from Tomb 169 in Astana was restored.From the aspects of user identity,ideological belief,artistic and cultural identity,and through vertical and horizontal image comparison analysis,the following two important conclusions were drawn.Firstly,in the Northern Dynasties,the forms and meanings of the peacock,the vermilion bird and the phoenixes were gradually confused and fused.When the divine bird appeared with the elements of immortal mountains,immortals,and divine stones,and had obvious Taoist or Confucian auspicious connotations,it might be the phoenix,or the vermilion bird or peacock,and in order to avoid fallacies,it should be collectively referred to as the“phoenix”,and be distinguished according to its stylistic features.Secondly,the“brocaded face cover of peal-linked peacock-shaped double phoenix pattern”(72TAM169:34)unearthed from Tomb 169 in Astana is a vivid example of the artistic and cultural exchange and integration between the East and the West along the Silk Road,and the fabric is likely to come from the Central Plains.In terms of the pat

关 键 词：阿斯塔那 凤鸟 朱雀 孔雀 面衣 丝绸之路 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]