艺术社会学视阈下宋画女性服饰色彩研究  

Analysis on the Color of Female Clothing in the Song Dynasty fromthe Perspective of Art Sociology

作　　者：银连桐 郭妍岑 YIN Liantong;GUO Yancen(Zhejiang University,Hangzhou 310000,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江大学,浙江杭州310000冤

出　　处：《西部皮革》2024年第1期117-119,共3页West Leather

摘　　要：文章从艺术社会学理论视角出发,围绕文人群体的社会生活与身份认同,探赜促使宋画女性服饰色彩程式形成的社会文化、观念意识、创作心理种种因素。文人主导制作的女性图像服色以“素雅简净”“柔和含蓄”为主要表征;既是文人自身高蹈出尘形象的化身,又来自道德仪轨的要求和政治结构影响下的自主选择,而画中女子服尚好素也可能是文人在释道合流、隐逸文化的影响下对自我理想形象“代言体”式的主观投射。From the perspective of sociology of art,the work focuses on the social life and identity of the scholar-officials,exploring the various factors that contributed to the formation of the color schemes in women's clothing in Song dynasty paintings.The social and cultural factors,conceptual consciousness,and creative psychology are all discussed.The women's clothing images produced under the guidance of scholar-officials are characterized by"unadorned elegance"and"modest restraint."These representations serve as embodiments of the literati's idealized self-image,and they also reflect the moral and political influences that shaped their choices.In other words,these images can be seen as what Eric Hobsbawm refers to as"The Invention of Tradition".

关 键 词：女装服饰 艺术社会学 社会文化 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J222.2[艺术—美术] J222.6[历史地理—历史学] K244[历史地理—中国史]