毛纱/锦纶长丝包覆纱的纺制及其性能与应用  

Processing of wool yarn/polyamide filament covered yarns andtheir properties and applications

作　　者：贾冰凡 敖利民[1,2] 唐雯 郑元生[4] 尚珊珊 JIA Bingfan;AO Limin;TANG Wen;ZHENG Yuansheng;SHANG Shanshan(College of Materials and Textile Engineering,Jiaxing University,Jiaxing,Zhejiang 314001,China;Zhejiang Key Laboratory of Yarn Material Forming and Composite Processing Technology Research,Jiaxing,Zhejiang 314001,China;College of Business,Jiaxing University,Jiaxing,Zhejiang 314001,China;School of Textiles and Fashion,Shanghai University of Engineering Science,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]嘉兴学院材料与纺织工程学院,浙江嘉兴314001 [2]浙江省纱线材料成形与复合加工技术研究重点实验室,浙江嘉兴314001 [3]嘉兴学院商学院,浙江嘉兴314001 [4]上海工程技术大学纺织服装学院,上海201620

出　　处：《纺织学报》2023年第12期58-66,共9页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：浙江省重点实验室开放基金项目(MTC-2022-01)。

摘　　要：为改善毛纱结构蓬松、毛羽多等问题,探讨包缠复合对其性能的影响,以开发毛纱包覆纱及其面料产品。以26.3 tex黑色毛纱为芯纱,44.4 dtex(34 f)锦纶6白色全拉伸长丝纱外包缠纱,纺制了4种捻度的单包包覆纱和交叉包缠双包包覆纱;对2类包覆纱的外观和结构进行了分析,并对其拉伸性能、毛羽、条干与纱疵进行了测试与比较,对毛纱包覆加工的应用进行了探讨。结果表明:包覆纱呈芯纱和外包缠纱颜色的混色外观;单包包覆纱捻度分布不匀,粗节处捻度小,细节处捻度大;单包包覆纱存在2次断裂特征,包缠捻度越大,2次断裂的频次越少;包覆纱的断裂强度大于毛纱,且双包包覆纱的断裂伸长率大于单包包覆纱;包覆纱的断裂伸长率相较毛纱有显著提高,且双包包覆纱优于单包包覆纱;包缠复合可显著降低毛纱的毛羽,改善毛纱条干,减少纱疵。Objective There are some performance defects in wool yarn itself,such as low breaking strength and excessive yarn hairiness,which affect its processability and fabric wearability,for example,low strength makes it unable to withstand larger weaving tension,and excessive hairiness leads to yarn entanglement during weaving and fabric pilling.This article explores the feasibility of using filament yarn to wrap wool yarn by hollow spindle covering to improve its processability and fabric wearability,as well as the impact of the main wrapping process on the technical effect,aiming at providing reference for the development of covered wool yarn and its fabric products.Method Four twist levels of single-covered and cross-wrapped double-covered composite yarns were applied to the yarns using the hollow spindle covering machine,where 26.3 tex black wool worsted yarn was used as the core yarn,and 44.4 dtex(34 f)polyamide white Fully-Drawn-Yarn(FDY)filament yarn was used as the outer wrapping yarn.The structure of the two types of composite yarns were observed by magnification,the tensile properties,hairiness,evenness and yarn defects were tested according to corresponding standards and comparatively analyzed,and the application of wool yarn covering processing was discussed.Results The spinning principle of single-covered and double-covered yarn were shown(Fig.1),and the structure models of the two types of covered yarn were given correspondingly(Fig.2),as well as the partial enlarged views of the two types of composite yarns(Fig.3),so as to observe and compare their composite structures.The package appearance(Fig.4)and the photos of the yarn card(Fig.5)of the two types of composite yarns were presented respectively to show the appearance characteristics.A partial enlarged picture of 750 twists/m single covered yarn was provided(Fig.6)for presenting the obvious twist irregularity of single covered composite yarn.In order to compare and analyze the influence of covering processing and its parameters on the tensile performanc

关 键 词：毛纱 包覆纱 包覆工艺 单包 双包 复合结构 纱线性能 锦纶长丝 

分 类 号：TS104.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TS104.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]