接结方式对双面全显色提花织物的呈色影响  

Influence of stitching method on color rendering ofdouble-face full-color jacquard fabric

作　　者：张萌[1] 白琳琳 李夏昕 周赳[1] ZHANG Meng;BAI Linlin;LI Xiaxin;ZHOU Jiu(Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018,China;Key Laboratory of Clean Dyeing and Finishing Technology of Zhejiang Province,Shaoxing University,Shaoxing,Zhejiang 312000,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,浙江杭州310018 [2]绍兴文理学院浙江省清洁染整技术研究重点实验室,浙江绍兴312000

出　　处：《纺织学报》2023年第12期73-80,共8页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究项目(J201802);文化部重点实验室资助项目(2017016);浙江省文化和旅游厅科研项目(2023KYY018);教育部人文社会科学研究项目(20YJC760037)。

摘　　要：针对分层组合设计模式下由于接结方式的改变造成全显色组织设计的调整现象,是否对双面提花织物表面呈色产生影响的问题,进行双面织物样品色彩实验验证。通过相同组织循环R、组织点加强数E的组合全显色组织和可遮盖全显色组织设计,相同的双面织物参数设置,织造自身接结、附加纬接结、添加附加纬未接结的3组双面织物样品,进行3组织物样品的色彩范围、色彩过渡均匀性和色差对比实验。结果表明:虽然组合全显色组织和可遮盖全显色组织之间2R/E个灰度级差造成接结方式不同时双面提花织物表面的呈色范围具有可接受及更轻微程度的差别,但在色彩过渡均匀性方面并未产生明显影响,并且附加纬接结方式本身也不会对双面提花织物表面色彩产生明显影响,设计师可根据产品需要自由选择接结方式。Objective In double-face jacquard fabric design under layered-combination design mode,the weave used in two-layer structure with self-stitching is compound full-color weave,and the one used in two-layer structure with central weft stitching is covered full-color weave.Grayscale difference exists between the two full-color weaves,and the color expression of double-face jacquard fabric is determined by the grayscale of full-color weave.Whether the color expression of double-face jacquard fabric will be influenced by stitching methods is the main problem in this paper.The purpose is to provide fabric designers with a better choice of stitching methods.Method 3 sets of double-face jacquard fabric samples with self-stitching,central weft stitching,and central weft non-stitching were produced under the same technical specification,including yarn thickness,color,and yarn density on both sides of the fabric.The compound full-color weave and the covered full-color weave were designed with the same weave repeat(R)and enhancement of weave points(E)to ensure the test comparability.The fabrics were then tested for color influence by the color range,color transition uniformity and color differences.Results There were 2R/E gray level differences between the compound full-color weave and covered full-color weave.On the fabrics,taking the 6 landmark lines with monochromatic gradient and two-color gradient as an example(Fig.4),the color ranges of the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabrics with self-stitching and central weft stitching were slightly different.The color range differences between the 2 sets of fabric samples are shown in Tab.4 and Tab.5.All of the differences were in either acceptable or similar range.In terms of color transition,24 landmark lines were among the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabric samples,and the R2 values of the fitted lines of relevant color values were all greater than 0.7(Tab 6),with 18 of them greater than 0.9.That indicates that the face and back the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabrics hav

关 键 词：提花织物 双面织物 自身接结 附加纬接结 呈色特征 

分 类 号：TS105.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]