面料性能对男士西服门襟造型的影响  

Impact of fabric performance on placket's appearance of men's tailored jackets

作　　者：孔媛[1] 劳稼玮 KONG Yuan;LAO Jiawei(International Institute of Fashion Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;KNY Menswear Co.,Ltd.Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学国际时装技术学院,杭州310018 [2]KNY男装有限公司,杭州310018

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2024年第1期100-107,共8页Advanced Textile Technology

基　　金：浙江省自然科学基金项目(LY17E06007);国家茧丝绸发展专项(22190133-C)。

摘　　要：西服门襟位于整件服装的视觉中心,是西服结构和造型的重要组成部分。除版型设计外,面料性能也会影响西服门襟的造型。以门襟倾斜度、重叠量作为门襟造型的客观评价指标,并以美观度、平整度作为门襟造型的主观评价指标,通过面料性能测试及门襟造型主客观评价实验,根据SPSS数据分析结果探究面料性能对西服门襟造型的影响,通过回归分析分别建立了门襟倾斜度、重叠量、美观度、平整度与面料性能关系的回归方程。研究表明:克重、厚度、悬垂系数、抗弯刚度、断裂强度和伸长率等面料性能指标会对门襟造型产生影响,主观评价指标与客观评价指标间存在较大的相关性,门襟的倾斜度小,重叠量大,门襟的美观度和平整度较好。The tailored jacket plays a unique and important role in the fashion industry.The placket,located in the center of the vision,is a crucial part of both the structure and the shape of the tailored jacket.In addition to the pattern design,the fabric performance has a great impact to the shape of the placket.It is vital to choose the suitable fabric according to the placket shape in the design and production of tailored jackets.After testing the functions and performances of 28 kinds of fabrics,we chose 10 kinds of fabrics with quite different performance through cluster analysis and made 10 tailored jacket samples with the same patterns,accessories,and process.Based on the SPSS data analysis results,the impact of fabric performance on the shape of the placket was discussed.The relation between the fabric performance and evaluation indexes of the placket shape was elaborated.The regression equations of them were established.Inclination and overlap were selected as the indexes of objective evaluation to placket shape.The research show that the fabric performance indexes which are correlated with the inclination include gram weight(W),thickness(T),warp density(M_j),drape coefficient(X_c),warp bending strength(K_j),zonal bending strength(K_w),zonal breaking strength(D_w),warp elongation(S_j),zonal elongation(S_w).The fabric performance indexes that are correlated with the overlap index include gram weight(W),drape coefficient(X_c),warp breaking strength(D_j),zonal breaking strength(D_w),warp elongation(S_j),and zonal elongation(S_w).Through regression analysis,the regression equations were established.The placket inclination equation:Y=-3.819W-0.071S_j-0.072k_j+31.076;the placket overlap equation:Y=-0.032X_c+0.174D_w-0.174S_j+0.125S_w+2.854.Aesthetics and flatness were selected as the indexes of subjective evaluation to placket shape.The study shows that the fabric performance indexes which are correlated with the aesthetics include gram weight(W),drape coefficient(X_c),zonal breaking strength(D_w),warp elongation(S_j)

关 键 词：西服 门襟 服装造型 面料性能 美观性评价 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]