汉代百戏之角抵戏、乐舞杂戏服饰研究  

A study on the costume of JiaoDi Opera,Music and Dance Miscellaneous Opera in the Han Dynasty's Baixi

作　　者：张彬 ZHANG Bin(School of Apparel of Art Design,Xi’an Polytechnic University,Xi’an 710048,China;School of Drama and Film and Television,Shanxi Normal University,Taiyuan 030031,China)

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学服装与艺术设计学院,陕西西安710048 [2]山西师范大学戏剧与影视学院,山西太原030031

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2023年第6期61-66,共6页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(22CB165);中国博士后科学基金第74批面上资助项目(2023M742183);陕西省教育厅重点科学研究计划项目(23JZ036)。

摘　　要：汉代百戏包罗了众多的艺术表演形式,其中最具时代特色的为角抵戏和乐舞杂戏,但其服饰却是学界触及较少且常常被人遗忘的领域。以汉代百戏中的角抵戏和乐舞杂戏服饰为例,采用二重证据法,通过文献史料结合文物史料比对分析,深入探讨汉代百戏中的角抵戏和乐舞杂戏服饰发展的社会背景、形制及其与汉人日常生活服饰的关系。研究表明:汉代角抵戏服饰与艺人的假形装扮密切相关,其形制特征为头戴假面,身着羽毛或兽皮材质,且与扮演的角色相得益彰,并有别于日常生活中的服饰;汉代乐舞杂戏由日常生活中表演舞蹈、奏乐的艺人和滑稽的俳优组成,其服饰形制特征为交领右衽袍服、宽松裤子等汉人日常生活中的服饰;汉代角抵戏和乐舞杂戏服饰虽然不能对汉代百戏服饰包罗万象,但是从某种角度也突出了汉代百戏服饰的时代特色,并彰显了汉代百戏服饰与汉代社会的密切关系。The Han Dynasty's Baixi included numerous artistic performance forms,among which the most distinctive of the times are Jiaodi Operas and Music and Dance Miscellaneous Operas.However,their clothing is a field that is rarely touched upon in the academic community and often forgotten by people.Thus,taking the costume of Jiaodi Opera and Musi Dance Miscellaneous Opera in the Han Dynasty's Baixi as an example,adopted the method of double evidence,through comparative analysis of literature and historical materials combined with cultural relics,this study explores the social background,form,and relationship between the costumes of the development of Jiaodi Opera and Music Dance Miscellaneous Opera costumes in the Han Dynasty's Baixi and their daily life costumes of the Han people.Research shows that the costume of the Han Dynasty Jiaotiao Opera is closely related to the disguise attire of artists,characterized by wearing a mask on the head,wearing feathers or animal skin materials,complementing the characters played,and being different from everyday clothing.The Han Dynasty Music,Dance,and Miscellaneous performances were composed of performers who performed dance,played music,and artists in a pantominme in their daily lives.Their costumes are characterized by cross necked right lapel robes,loose pants,and other daily clothing of the Han people.The costumes of Han Dynasty Jiaodi Opera and Music and Dance Miscellaneous cannot cover all aspects of the Han Dynasty Baixi costumes,but from a certain perspective,they also highlight the era characteristics of Han Dynasty Baixi costumes and highlight the close relationship between Han Dynasty Baixi costumes and Han society.

关 键 词：汉代 百戏 角抵戏 乐舞杂戏 服饰 

分 类 号：TS941.1[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]