海西州民族博物馆馆藏唐代立领半袖夹袍形制研究  

Study of the form of the Tang dynasty mandarin collar and halfsleeve robe in the collection of the Ethnic Museum of Haixi Prefecture

作　　者：刘大玮 谷雨珊 石晶 赵睿 LIU Dawei;GU Yushan;SHI Jing;ZHAO Rui(The Institute of Archaeology,Chinese Academy of Social Sciences,Beijing 100710,China;School of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100019,China;Haixi Ethnology Museum,Delingha 817099,Qinghai,China;Louisiana State University,College of Agriculture,Baton Rouge,LA 70803,Louisiana State,USA)

机构地区：[1]中国社会科学院考古研究所,北京100710 [2]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100019 [3]海西州民族博物馆,青海德令哈817099 [4]路易斯安那州立大学,农业学院,美国路易斯安那州巴吞鲁日70803

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2023年第6期89-94,共6页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：中国社会科学院考古研究所创新工程(2021KGYG023);国务院总理基金“纺织考古与实验室清理保护”。

摘　　要：为了进一步挖掘唐代服饰形制特点以及文化交融对其形制的影响,以海西州民族博物馆馆藏唐代立领半袖夹袍为研究对象,采用实验考古学方法,并结合文献资料、实物和图像,分析唐代立领半袖夹袍的材料、组织、纹样、工艺以及尺寸,探究唐代服饰的结构特点及其文化影响。结果显示,该件袍服领部结构为较为罕见的三片式;其结构受到中原服饰风格和唐代律令的影响;袍服纹样为长方形内依次排列对兽、对鸟和菱形;其材质应为蚕丝纤维。从袍服的服饰图案、形制和材质的分析可推断,其主人可能是当地的贵族或商人。该件袍服不仅进一步证明了唐代的织造工艺,而且反映了当时的中西方文化交融带给服饰形制的影响。In order to further excavate the characteristics of Tang dynasty dress form and the impact of cultural intermingling on its shape,takes the Tang dynasty mandarin collar and halfsleeve robe in the collection of Ethnic Museum of Haixi Prefecture as the research object,adopts experimental archaeology method and combines with the literature,objects and images to analyze the material,texture,pattern,craft and size of the robe,and to investigate the structural characteristics of the Tang dynasty dress and its cultural influences.The results show that the structure of the collar of the robe is a rare three-piece style;Its structure should be influenced by the style of clothing in the the central plains of China and the Tang dynasty law;The pattern of the robe was arranged in a rectangular shape,with animals,birds,and diamonds placed in sequence;Its material shoud be silk fiber.From the analysis of the pattern,form and material of the robe,the owner may be a local noble or a merchant.The robe not only further proves the weaving technology of the Tang dynasty,but also reflects the influence of Chinese and western culture at that time on the form of clothing.

关 键 词：唐代立领半袖夹袍 唐代袍服 服饰形制 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]