近代女子足服变迁  

Study of women's footwear in modern China

作　　者：刘玉琪 LIU Yuqi(Postdoctoral Research Station,Central Academy of Fine Arts,Beijing 100105,China)

机构地区：[1]中央美术学院博士后流动站,北京100105

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2023年第6期95-101,共7页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：教育部哲学社会科学研究重大课题攻关项目(21JZO048)。

摘　　要：为了探讨放足运动后近代女子的足服选择与时尚变迁。本文采用历史社会学和艺术史学的研究方法,结合实物、文献和图像材料,对反缠足运动开始后近代女子足服的变迁进行研究。结果表明,男式鞋袜成为近代女子足服的首选,而西式皮鞋和洋袜直到1929年才被广泛接受,成因既与国货生产技术的滞后有关,也与文学和视觉图像对国民服饰观念的影响有关。其次,真正受益于放足运动的是原本处于上层社会的女眷,而不是“被解放”的广大女性,她们通过高跟鞋和肉色丝袜等新型足服特权,继续将时尚和社会身份象征化,并成为新时期大众效仿的对象,与传统三寸金莲形成鲜明对比。In order to explore the choices in footwear and the changes in fashion among modern women after the anti-foot-binding movement.The present study employs research methods from historical sociology and art history,integrating physical objects,literature,and visual materials to investigate the evolution of modern women's footwear following the anti-foot-binding movement.The research shows that men's shoes and socks became the preferred footwear for modern women,while Western-style leather shoes and western socks were not widely accepted until 1929.The reason is not only related to the lag of the production technology of domestic goods,but also related to the influence of literature and visual images on the concept of national clothing.Furthermore,the research points out that the primary beneficiaries of the anti-foot-binding movement were women from the upper class,rather than the“liberated”majority of women.Through new footwear privileges such as high-heeled shoes and flesh-colored stockings,they continued to symbolize fashion and social status,becoming objects of emulation in the new era,contrasting sharply with the traditional practice of foot binding.

关 键 词：近代足服 皮鞋 高跟鞋 洋袜 丝袜 

分 类 号：TS102.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]