战国秦汉斜向互绞编织物的编织工艺研究  

Study on the weaving process of diagonally interlocked and twisted fabrics of the Warring States,Qin and Han Dynasties

作　　者：黄天 周旸 龙博[1,2] HUANG Tian;ZHOU Yang;LONG Bo(College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州310018 [2]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310002

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第2期115-124,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金项目(19CKG023)。

摘　　要：本文以战国秦汉时期的两件斜向互绞编织物为研究对象,通过模拟复原的方法对战国秦汉时期斜向互绞编织物的组织结构与编织工艺进行分析与探究。对比两者在结构、格眼、纹理、组边上的异同,发现通过变化基础结构中经线交织的方向和次数可以形成不同的组织结构和纹理效果。在编织工艺上,两者都使用斜向穿绞编法。其中普通组各编线间的编结变化和排列顺序以2个经线数为循环,编线在各行编结时的状态与编线数的奇偶和第一行编结时各编线的编结状态有关。During the Warring States,Qin and Han Dynasties,diagonally interlocking twisted fabrics were very popular,not only reaching a peak in terms of the number of excavations,types and range of locations,but also introducing new changes in organizational structure.The diagonally interlocked and twisted fabric is a composite woven material that combines diagonal weaving techniques and twisting techniques to create a fabric with a diagonal grid appearance.The biggest difference of it from other woven fabrics is that the yarns are diagonally interwoven and twisted.In ancient times,people collectively called knitted fabrics with 22 diagonally intertwined organizational dots arranged in a rhombic pattern“group”,and its organizational structure was called codified group structure.The main types of fabrics used are lacquered yarns and groups.The structure of most of the groups is a single codified group structure,i.e.,the base structure of the organization is in the shape of“X”,while the Dabaotai Zuying is the only group band with a compound codified group structure found in the Han Dynasty,and the base structure of its organization is in the shape of“quadrangular petals”.The discovery of it confirms some of the records in the literature on the naming and identification of groups,and also provides reliable evidence for the changes in the codified group structure and the corresponding development of the weaving process.To gain a deeper understanding of the organizational structure and weaving process of diagonally interlocked and twisted fabrics,the article took two representative pieces of diagonally interlocked and twisted fabrics of this period as examples.Of them,one is the Dabaotai Han Tomb group band with a compound codified structure,and the other one is the Baoshan Chu Tomb group band with a conventional codified structure.On the basis of a comparative analysis of the organizational structure of both of them,the article used simulation and restoration to investigate their weaving process.Through practice,it

关 键 词：斜向互绞编织物 战国秦汉 编织工艺 组织结构 纹理 格眼 

分 类 号：TS186.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计] K876.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]