基于灯芯绒组织的精纺丝/毛短顺大衣呢面料开发  

Development of worsted silk/wool short-sleeved coats using corduroy

作　　者：周力 陈太明 张燕娜 于月霞 ZHOU Li;CHEN Taiming;ZHANG Yanna;YU Yuexia(Shengzhou Youngor Wool Textile Co.,Ltd.,Shengzhou,Zhejiang 312400,China)

机构地区：[1]嵊州雅戈尔毛纺织有限公司,浙江嵊州312400

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第1期10-14,共5页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为适应当前绿色生态环保的消费理念,满足消费者对面料的舒适性、功能性、时尚性的新要求,基于灯芯绒组织开发丝/毛短顺大衣呢面料,结合棉纺色织灯芯绒的产品特点,利用精纺环锭纺纱线与桑蚕丝交织,通过精纺、粗纺后整理设备的优势互补,开发全新风格的面料;介绍精纺丝/毛短顺大衣呢面料设计思路以及灯芯绒组织、排列、原料的选择对产品风格的影响;根据对面料外观和手感要求的特殊性,从纺纱、织造和后整理工序进行多次工艺试验和质量攻关,最终面料的纱线质量得到提高,同时解决了由于纬密大织造易断经、纬向弹力纱易卷边、高比例桑蚕丝在后整理过程中易造成磨伤、斑疵等关键问题,拓展了精纺羊毛织物产品的开发思路。In order to adapt to the current consumer′s inclination towards green ecological environmental protection,as well as meet the new demands for comfort,functionality,and fashion in fabrics,a silk/wool short coat fabric was developed based on corduroy structure,which combined the product characteristics of cotton yarn-dyed corduroy with worsted ring spinning yarn and mulberry silk interweaving techniques while leveraging the advantages of both worsted and woolen finishing equipment to create innovative fabric styles.The design concept behind worsted silk/wool short coat cloth was introduced and how corduroy structure,arrangement,and raw material selection influence product style was explored.Considering the specific requirements for appearance and texture of this fabric,several process tests were conducted during spinning,weaving,and post-finishing processes to enhance yarn quality in the final fabric.Simultaneously addressing key issues such as warp breakage during high weft density weaving,flaking of elastic weft yarns,grinding problems caused by a high proportion of mulberry silk in post-finishing.The development ideas of worsted wool fabric products are expanded.

关 键 词：灯芯绒组织 精纺 短顺大衣呢 产品设计 生产工艺 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]