体天格物——从宋明服饰花木纹样看民众岁时生活  

Ti Tian Ge Wu:Viewing the People's Life at the Festivals and Solar Terms from the Flower and Tree Patterns of Costumes in the Song and Ming Dynasties

作　　者：许可心 蒋玉秋[1] XU Kexin;JIANG Yuqiu(Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100105,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院,北京100105

出　　处：《工业工程设计》2024年第1期52-64,共13页INDUSTRIAL&ENGINEERING DESIGN

基　　金：北京服装学院高层次人才项目(NHFZ20230174)。

摘　　要：“花木”是对宋明时期植物分类中“花、果、木、卉”的统称。花木纹样,是宋明服饰纹样题材中的一类,其品类多样、形态丰富,具有言志寓兴的文化意蕴。岁时,包括节令和节日,节令即二十四节气,节日包含上元、端午、七夕、中秋等传统庆祝或祭祀的日子。花木与人一同生活于时间系统之下,共同感受和反应自然的发展变化,宋明时期是我国古代岁时与花木文化发展进程中十分重要的阶段,人们以花木映射岁时、装饰生活,表达对自然和人生的审美与哲思。以宋明服饰中的岁时花木纹样为研究对象,探析其所呈现的宋明时期人们在岁时之中的生活样貌;尝试解读在岁时生活的视角下花木纹样所含的象征意象;讨论在自然花木主题下的花木纹样中,体现的宋明时期社会人文的传承与发展。在宋明服饰中,岁时花木纹样的应用展现出当时民众应时应节的时间生活方式,花木纹样在宋明服饰中的应用具有“合天时,达人意”的装饰特点,传达出宋明时期“万物有灵”和“天人合一”的生活哲思。"Flower and tree"is a collective term for"flower,fruit,wood and grass"in the classification of plants in the Song and Ming dynasties.Flower and tree pattern is one of the subjects in the Song and Ming costume pattern,which is diversified and rich in forms,and has the cultural meaning of expressing will and symbolizing happiness.A year is composed of seasons and festivals.The seasons include the twenty-four solar terms,and the festivals include the days of traditional celebrations or rituals,such as the Lantern Festival,the Dragon Boat Festival,the Double Seventh Festival,and the Mid-Autumn Festival.Flowers and trees live under the time system together with human beings,feeling and reflecting the development of nature together.The Song and Ming Dynasties are very important stages in the development of ancient Chinese seasons and flower and tree cultures,in which flowers and trees are used to map the seasons,make decorations in daily life,and express aesthetic and philosophical thoughts about nature and life.This work takes the seasonal flower and tree patterns in the Song and Ming costumes as the research object to analyze the life style of people in the seasonal life of the Song and Ming Dynasties presented by the patterns and try to interpret the symbolic images contained in the flower and tree patterns under the perspective of the seasonal life and then discusses the social and humanistic inheritance and development of the Song and Ming Dynasties embodied in the flower and tree patterns under the theme of natural flowers and trees.The application of seasonal flower and tree patterns in the Song and Ming costumes shows the people's lifestyle at that time,which has the decorative characteristics of"conforming to the time of the day and achieving the will of the people"and conveys the concepts of"everything has a spirit"and"harmony between man and nature"in Song and Ming Dynasties.

关 键 词：岁时 花木 宋明时期 服饰纹样 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]