双分梳转杯纺花色牛仔纱设计及产品开发  

Design and Product Development of Dual Openning Rotor Spun Fancy,Denim Yarn

作　　者：石中玉 江慧[1] 张玉泽[1] 汪军[1] SHI Zhongyu;JIANG Hui;ZHANG Yuze;WANG Jun(Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学,上海201620

出　　处：《纺织器材》2024年第1期9-11,72,共4页Textile Accessories

基　　金：上海市现代纺织前沿科学研究基地资助项目(X11012102-004)。

摘　　要：为了解决传统牛仔纱颜色单调、织物风格单一,且存在染色污染的问题,从牛仔纱线花色设计出发,详述选用黑白粘胶纤维、通过改变不同颜色纤维组分比例,在双分梳转杯纺单头试验机上纺制5种双节花色变化牛仔纱的方案设计;选取颜色风格为灰黑的牛仔纱,以分梳辊转速、转杯转速及成纱捻度3因素设计正交试验,对比不同试验水平所纺的纱线性能,优选出最佳纺纱工艺组合及其织物织造工艺。指出:在分梳辊转速为7.5 kr/min、转杯转速为50 kr/min、纱线捻度为65捻/(10 cm)的条件下,纺制的牛仔纱质量较好,织物具有明显的灰黑牛仔风格;采用双分梳转杯纺技术、改变原料组分及交替比例的纺纱模式,能直接进行牛仔纱色彩设计,生产方便高效且过程环保;增加有色原料组分变化比例及变化次数,可纺制出多节渐变的花色牛仔纱。In order to solve the problems of monotonous color,single fabric style,and dyeing pollution of traditional denim yarns,from the denim yarn fancy design,the scheme design of five kinds of double-section variable fancy denim yarns spinning on the dual openning rotor spinning single-head test machine are elaborated by using black and white viscose fiber and changing the proportion of different color fiber components.The denim yarn of color style with grey and black is selected,and the orthogonal test based on three factors,namely the speed of the openning roller,the speed of the rotor,and the twist of the resultant yarn is designed to compare the properties of yarns spun at different test levels,and the best spinning process combination and weaving process are selected.It is pointed out that under the conditions of 7.5 kr/min to the speed of the openning roller,50 kr/min to the speed of the rotor,and 65 twist/(10 cm)to the twist of the yarn,the quality of the denim yarn is better and the fabric has obvious grey and black denim style.The spinning mode that used the dual openning rotor spinning technology,changing raw material components and alternating ratio is adopted.In this spinning mode,the color of the denim yarn is directly designed,the production is convenient and efficient,and the process is environmentally friendly.By increasing the changing proportion and changing times of colored rawmaterial components,the multi-section and gradually changing fancy denim yarn can be spun.

关 键 词：双分梳 转杯纺 花色牛仔纱 转杯 分梳辊 转速 捻度 粘胶纤维 

分 类 号：TS104.71[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]