锦氨面料色牢度问题量化分析  

Quantitative analysis of color fastness issues in polyamide/elastane fabrics

作　　者：缪华丽 王齐兵 王思琪 吴彬 张红燕 陈英英 MIAO Huali;WANG Qibing;WANG Siqi;WU Bin;ZHANG Hongyan;CHEN Yingying(Transfar Zhilian Co.Ltd.,Hangzhou 311215,China;Zhejiang Jihua Group Co.Ltd.,Hangzhou 311215,China)

机构地区：[1]传化智联股份有限公司,浙江杭州311215 [2]浙江吉华集团股份有限公司,浙江杭州311215

出　　处：《印染助剂》2023年第12期42-45,共4页Textile Auxiliaries

摘　　要：针对锦氨面料色牢度问题,通过同浴染色的锦纶及氨纶模拟混纺织物,对混纺体系中锦纶及氨纶上染料量、浮色扩散量和固色剂吸附量进行测试,设定锦纶上的染料/固色剂量与氨纶上的染料/固色剂量的比值为分配比,使其作为量化指标。考察染料、固色剂在锦氨体系中的分配情况,明确染料在锦纶上的高分配比(6.67)和固色剂的低分配比(2.81)使得锦纶固色不足,加上氨纶的浮色解吸量较高,导致络合染料中深色染色锦氨面料出现色牢度问题。In response to the issue of color fastness of polyamide/elastane fabrics,nylon and spandex were dyed in the same bath to simulate polyamide/elastane fabric.The amount of dye,floating color diffusion and fixing agent adsorption on nylon and spandex in the blended system were tested.Set the ratio of dye/fixa⁃tive amount on polyamide and dye/fixative amount on spandex as the distribution ratio,which was used as the quantitative index.The distribution of dyes and fixers in the polyamide/elastane blends system was investigat⁃ed.It was determined that high distribution ratio of dyes on nylon(6.67)and the low distribution ratio of fixing agents(2.81)result in insufficient fixation of nylon.In addition,the high unfixed dyestuff desorption capacity of spandex led to color fastness issues in deep colored dyeing of polyamide fabrics with complex dyes.

关 键 词：锦氨织物 耐皂洗色牢度 染料 浮色 酸性固色剂 

分 类 号：TS195.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]