《增广贤文》中的纺织服饰信息源考及其文化内涵探析  

Study onthe Sources of Informationon Textile and Clothing in Zeng Guang Xian Wen and its Cultural Connotations

作　　者：王燕[1] 杨小明[1] WANG Yan;YANG Xiaoming(College of Humanities,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学人文学院,上海201620

出　　处：《武汉纺织大学学报》2024年第1期18-23,共6页Journal of Wuhan Textile University

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学规划项目(21YJA760032);湖北省教育厅哲学社会科学研究一般项目(20Y075)。

摘　　要：目前《增广贤文》中关于纺织服饰的信息解读存在着一些误解,这些误解不利于中国传统文化和纺织文化的传播。文章基于文献考据和考古实物相结合的二维互证研究方法,对《增广贤文》中关于纺织服饰的信息进行再研究,研究认为:第一,“红粉”并不是指红色的粉,而是指胭脂和粉妆。第二,“假缎染就真红色,也被旁人说是非”一句,其实是被人篡改了,“缎”应该是“饶”字,此句是一种反面警示教育,告诫即使有真本事也会被人诋毁。第三,“种麻得麻,种豆得豆”一句中的麻是指麻籽,而非麻纤维。第四,“会使不在家豪富,风流不用着衣多”“有钱堪出众,无衣懒出门”涉及“衣”的解读两句看似相互矛盾,但二句反映的是中国君子对于自己的内心强调的是淡然,对外则强调“光前裕后”,强调“礼”在生活中的重要,同时强调礼只有通过心才能起到作用。第五,“光阴似箭,日月如梭”一句,体现了中国古代的纺织与世界观、宇宙观的联系。第六,“一毫之恶,劝人莫作。一毫之善,与人方便”中的毫是重量单位。At present,there are some misunderstandings in the interpretation of the information about textile and clothing in Zeng Guang Xian Wen,which are not conducive to the dissemination of traditional Chinese culture and textile culture.Based on the two-dimensional mutual evidence research method combining documentary evidence and archaeological objects,the article re-examines the information about textile and clothing in Zeng Guang Xian Wen,and concludes that:①"red powder"does not mean red powder,but rouge and powder make-up.②The sentence"Fake satin dyed true red,but also bystanders say right and wrong"is in fact tampered with,"satin"should be"rao",this sentence is a kind of negative warning education,warning even if you have real skills,you will be denigrated.③The hemp in the sentence"Sow hemp and you get hemp,sow beans and you get beans"refers to hemp seeds,not hemp fibres.④"A man who can get rich does not show off at home,and a handsome man does not need clothes to decorate his appearance"and"People with money should socialize more,people without money don't need to go out".The interpretation of the two sentences involving"clothes"seems to be contradictory,but the two sentences reflect the emphasis that the Chinese gentleman stresses the importance of"propriety"in his life by being indifferent to his inner self and his outer self,and at the same time stresses that propriety can only be effective through the heart.⑤The sentence"time flies like an arrow,the sun and the moon are like shuttles"reflects the connection between textiles and the worldview and cosmology in ancient China.⑥The millimetre is a unit of weight in the phrase"If there is a single millimetre of evil,we advise people not to do it.If there is a single millimetre of good,we advise people do it."

关 键 词：《增广贤文》 纺织服饰 考辨 文化内涵 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]