传统民间改制型儿童斗篷的复原与设计研究  

Study on restoring and designing repurposed children’s cloaks in folk traditions

作　　者：吕轩 崔荣荣 LV Xuan;CUI Rongrong(College of Fashion and Design Art,Sichuan Normal University,Chengdu 610066,China;School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]四川师范大学服装与设计艺术学院,成都610066 [2]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第3期11-19,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学西部边疆规划基金项目(22XJA760001);教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(22YJA850004);四川师范大学校级实验室创新研究项目实验技术与管理项目(XJ20230095);四川师范大学校级教改项目(20220064XKC)。

摘　　要：传统民间改制型儿童斗篷是利用成人旧衣物改制而成的童装之一。文章以江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏和笔者田野考察拍摄的改制型儿童斗篷为研究对象,以探究其改制背景、工艺痕迹、服装结构来推演旧衣物来源,并通过复原马面裙、女褂改制成儿童斗篷的过程为案例进行实证。研究表明:民间制作者通常首选布料面积大、绣花精致具有装饰性的传统民间服饰作为改制材料,其次是其他家纺产品;其设计特征表现为色彩选择以祈福为目的,图案重组以满足显露需求为重点,细节装饰以搭配主体为基准,改制遵循“以大化小”“翻旧为新”“美化传承”的原则。所蕴含的设计思想和文化内涵,充分体现了中华民族的艰苦朴素品质、祈福观念、民间造物智慧。The thesis delves into the restoration and design aspects of traditionally repurposed children's cloaks,shedding light on the prevalent practice of transforming adults' attires into children's garments in folk traditions.From a design perspective,it distills the underlying design wisdom behind the campaign,seeing the big from small.The motivation for this study stems from three main perspectives.First,while scholarly research on traditional children's clothes is abundant based on history,folk culture,children's clothes collection ranging from clothes patterns,types to characteristics,there exists a relative dearth of focused studies on children's cloaks.Second,during the late Qing Dynasty to the early days of the People' Republic of China,“old clothes repurposing” was a common daily practice due to economic scarcity and material shortages.Some scholars have already used newspapers and periodicals as research materials to discuss the development,formation and practice process of the old clothes repurposing in the early years of the founding of the People's Republic of China,yet there is still a lack of in-depth research on the structure,process,craft and design considerations of altering old clothes.Third,15 samples have already apparently been altered among 64 samples of children's cloaks,signifying the widespread folk practice of repurposing old garments into new children's cloaks.The research employed literature review,field investigation,and material analysis methods to comprehensively analyze the reasons for its emergence,developing situation,sources of old clothes,repurposing behavior,and design characteristics.Leveraging the resources from the Folk Costume Museum of Jiangnan University and field surveys conducted by the authors,the thesis scrutinized repurposed children's cloaks to infer the sources of old clothes through an examination of the background,craft,and garments.The empirical case study focused on the restorative process of transforming horse-face skirts and women's coats into children's cloa

关 键 词：传统民间服饰 儿童斗篷 旧衣改制 复原 设计特征 民间造物智慧 

分 类 号：TS941.725[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]