烘燥对活性染料染色丝绸的颜色损伤  

Color damage of silk dyed with reactive dyes by drying

作　　者：王兵心 赵旭 于晞 胡祝兵 刘建立 WANG Bingxin;ZHAO Xu;YU Xi;HU Zhubing;LIU Jianli(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Nanjing Customs Textile Products Testing Center,Nanjing 214101,China;Wuxi Little Swan Electric Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi 214035,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]南京海关纺织工业产品检测中心,南京214101 [3]无锡小天鹅电器有限公司,江苏无锡214035

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第3期28-37,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏省自然科学基金-青年基金项目(BK20200608)。

摘　　要：为阐明烘燥对丝绸织物颜色损伤的机理,开展了干衣机烘燥微环境中丝绸织物颜色变化规律和脱落染料组分鉴定研究。文章采用活性红195,以一浴一步法对桑蚕丝织物染色并烘燥不同的时间周期。织物颜色测试结果表明,经过不同烘燥周期后丝织物的L^(*)、a^(*)、b^(*)值都发生了变化。尤其是在经过20个烘燥周期后,与原试样相比,丝织物的L^(*)、a^(*)、b^(*)值和总色差ΔE变化较为显著。为研究染料烘燥时脱落的成分,采用去离子水将沾色试样上沾染的浮色物质洗脱后进行反向高效液相色谱(RP-HPLC)和核磁共振氢谱(H-NMR)测试。结果表明:与活性红195水解反应生成3个中间产物和1个最终产物的现象不同,沾色试样洗脱液中仅检出染料水解的最终产物。由此推断,在染色或皂洗时染料会发生水解并吸附在纤维表面和孔隙内部,在烘燥时未与纤维反应的水解染料会从纤维上脱落,这是造成丝绸织物烘燥颜色变化的主要原因之一。The color damage caused by sunlight drying,such as fading and yellowing,is the main pain point of silk clothing washing and care,which seriously affects the service life of silk clothing.The reasons for the color damage of silk clothes caused by sun drying are complex,and are directly related to the composition of silk protein and ultraviolet rays in sunlight.However,with the gradual popularization of clothes dryers,the “dry era” has quietly arrived.In urban households in China,the use of clothes dryers to dry clothes will gradually replace the traditional sun drying mode.It should be pointed out that although the drying mechanism technology is mature,the research on the drying theory of clothes is still in its infancy,especially the research on the color damage caused by drying of silk clothes is still blank.Therefore,the research on this part of the content is particularly important,and is expected to provide theoretical support for manufacturers to develop high-end clothing care technology and promote the development of clothes dryers in a better direction.In order to meet the public's demand for silk fabrics and the expectation of optimizing the drying process of clothes dryers,the color change rule of silk fabrics and the identification of dye shedding components in the drying microenvironment of clothes dryers were studied from the point of view of the combination of dyes and fibers.Firstly,a mulberry silk fabric was dyed and dried in different time periods by using Reactive Red 195 in one bath and one step.The results of fabric color test show that the color difference of the dyed silk fabric is significantly different from that of air-dried fabrics after different drying cycles,and increases with the increase of drying cycles.Secondly,to study the components of dye shed during drying,the dyes shed during drying were collected and eluted with deionized water for reverse high performance liquid chromatography(RP-HPLC) and nuclear hydrogen magnetic resonance spectroscopy(H-NMR).The results showed that on

关 键 词：丝绸织物 活性染料 烘燥 液相色谱 颜色 

分 类 号：TS193.632[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]