层状液晶乳化技术包载天然活性物质用于功能化妆品的研究进展  

Recent advances in lamellar liquid crystal emulsification methods encapsulating natural active substances for functional cosmetics

作　　者：张毅[1] 陈微 韩艳琪 孙倩雯 高越 叶军[1] 王洪亮[1] 高丽丽 刘玉玲[1] 杨艳芳 ZHANG Yi;CHEN Wei;HAN Yan-qi;SUN Qian-wen;GAO Yue;YE Jun;WANG Hong-liang;GAO Li-li;LIU Yu-ling;YANG Yan-fang(Institute of Materia Medica,Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences and Peking Union Medical College,Beijing 100050,China)

机构地区：[1]中国医学科学院,北京协和医学院药物研究所,北京100050

出　　处：《药学学报》2024年第2期350-358,共9页Acta Pharmaceutica Sinica

基　　金：中国医学科学院医学与健康科技创新工程(CIFMS-2021-I2M-1-026);北京市自然科学基金资助项目(7212155)。

摘　　要：由于与人体皮肤角质细胞间的脂质层高度相似性的特点,包载天然活性物质的液晶乳化技术制备的层状液晶结构的功能化妆品成为近年的研究热点。该类化妆品往往具备水润清爽的涂抹肤感、优异的皮肤屏障修复功能和高效的保湿作用等特点,极具应用前景。目前,关于液晶乳化技术应用于功能化妆品的研究尚处于初始阶段,具有参考价值的相关报道较少。基于此,本论文拟从人体皮肤结构、液晶尤其是层状液晶的结构组成、层状液晶包载天然活性物质用于功能化妆品的优势、含有层状液晶结构功能化妆品的制备工艺及相关上市功能化妆品等进行了全面的综述。最后,对液晶乳化技术在功能化妆品中的应用前景进行了展望,以期为从事液晶乳化技术相关功能化妆品的研究提供有益的参考。Due to the high similarity with the lipid layer between human skin keratinocytes,functional cosmetics with layered liquid crystal structure prepared by liquid crystal emulsification technology encapsulating natural active substances have become a hot research topic in recent years.This type of functional cosmetic often has a fresh and natural skin feel,excellent skin barrier repair function and efficient moisturizing effect,etc.,showing great potential in cosmetic application.However,the present research on the application of liquid crystal emulsification technology to functional cosmetics is still in the initial stage,and there are fewer relevant reports with reference values.Based on the mentioned above,this review provides a comprehensive summary of functional cosmetics with layered liquid crystal structures prepared by liquid crystal emulsification technology from the following aspects:the structure of human skin,the composition of lamellar liquid crystal,the advantages of liquid crystal emulsification technology containing natural active substances used in the field of functional cosmetics,the preparation process,main components,influencing factors during the preparation and the market functional cosmetics with lamellar liquid crystal structure.Finally,the prospect of the application of liquid crystal emulsification technology in functional cosmetics is presented,to provide useful references for those engaged in the research of liquid crystal emulsification technology-related functional cosmetics.

关 键 词：功能化妆品 液晶乳化技术 层状液晶 天然活性物质 

分 类 号：R943[医药卫生—药剂学]