清代满族钿子的审美价值及设计启示  

The Aesthetic Value and Design Enlightenment of'Dian Zi'of Manchu in Qing Dynasty

作　　者：尹一名 李耿[1] YIN Yiming;LI Geng(School of Gemmology,China University of Geosciences(Beijing),Beijing 100083)

机构地区：[1]中国地质大学(北京)珠宝学院,北京100083

出　　处：《中国宝玉石》2024年第1期26-33,45,共9页China Gems & Jades

摘　　要：钿子是极其具有满族特色的重要女性头部装饰之一,是皇后和妃嫔们在较为正式的场合中搭配礼服吉服的一种头饰。钿子可以视作为满族妇女头饰在发展过程中的一种既继承传统,又推陈出新的一种首饰。它不仅展示了工匠高超的技艺,而且反应了清代宫廷女子对生活、美丽、吉祥的祈愿。此外,钿子的不同分类、佩戴规则、装饰特点等,又是清代宫廷女子现实生活以及地位、等级、身份、礼制的写照,具有一定的文化价值。本文从清代满族钿子的基本特征及装饰要素入手,分析探讨其设计美学及设计法则,为当代中国风首饰设计提供思路。Dian zi is one of the most important women's headdresses with Manchu characteristics,and it is a kind of headdress for queens and concubines to match their dresses on more formal occasions.Dian zi can be regarded as Manchu women's headdress in the development process of a kind of inheritance of tradition,but also to promote a new kind of jewelry,not only to show the craftsmen's skill and the Qing dynasty court women's life,beauty,good luck prayers.The different classifications and rules of the Dian zi are a reflection of the real life of the Qing court women,which has a certain cultural value.This paper analyzes and discusses the design aesthetics and design rules of Manchu Dian zi from the basic form and decorative elements of the Qing Dynasty,providing ideas for contemporary Chinese style jewelry design.

关 键 词：钿子 清代头饰 满族头饰 首饰设计 

分 类 号：J529[艺术—艺术设计]