茜草植物染料染色羊绒纤维的摩擦牢度  

The rubbing fastness of cashmere fibers dyed with madder vegetable dyes

作　　者：俞建伟 侯战昌 陈超 余志成[1,2] YU Jianwei;HOU Zhanchang;CHEN Chao;YU Zhicheng(College of Textile Science and Engineer,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Engineering Research Center for Eco-Dyeing&Finishing of Textiles,Ministry of Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Ningbo Consinee New Fiber Technology Co.,Ltd.,Ningbo 315200,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学生态染整技术教育部工程研究中心,杭州310018 [3]宁波康赛妮新纤维科技有限公司,宁波315200

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2024年第2期105-111,共7页Advanced Textile Technology

基　　金：宁波市科技创新2025重大专项(2022Z100)。

摘　　要：茜草是最常用的红色天然染料,广泛应用于真丝和纤维素纤维染色。但生产中发现明矾作为媒染剂用于茜草植物染料染色羊绒纤维的摩擦牢度极差。通过分析媒染、染色前后羊绒表面沉积物及其与摩擦牢度的相互关系,探讨了导致摩擦牢度低下的原因并提出改进方法。结果表明:适度去鳞片处理可有效减少明矾媒染时氢氧化铝在羊绒表面沉积,使茜草植物染料染色羊绒的干、湿摩擦牢度分别提高到2级和3级;酒石酸-明矾媒染羊绒表面无明显沉积,茜草植物染料染色后羊绒纤维的干、湿摩擦牢度分别提高到4级和5级,同时日晒、皂洗牢度也均在4级以上。As the most commonly used red natural dye,madder is widely used in the dyeing of silk and cellulose fibers.Nevertheless,it is found that the rubbing fastness of cashmere fibers dyed with madder vegetable dyes with alum as the mordant is very poor,with the dry rubbing fastness reaching grade 1,and the wet rubbing fastness reaching grade 2-3,respectively.In contrast,the dry and wet rubbing fastness of cashmere fibers dyed with madder vegetable dyes with ferrous sulfate as mordant can reach grade 3 and grade 4.To explore the reason why the rubbing fastness of the two is so different,scanning electron microscopy tests were carried out on the cashmere dyed by alum and ferrous sulfate,respectively.The results showed that there was a large amount of solid sediment on the surface of cashmere fibers dyed by alum,but no solid sediment was found on the surface of cashmere dyed by ferrous sulfate.This is because the pH value of the solution during alum dyeing is higher than the precipitation point of the aluminum ion,and a large amount of aluminum hydroxide is deposited on the surface of cashmere during the dyeing process.As a result,the madder dye will react with aluminum ions on the surface of cashmere during dyeing,and the madder dye attached to the surface of cashmere cannot be diffused into the interior of the cashmere fiber,resulting in poor rubbing fastness.Ferrous sulfate dyeing is carried out under weak acidic conditions,ferrous ions are slowly and uniformly absorbed and diffused into cashmere fibers to have coordination reaction with cashmere,and the madder dye can diffuse into cashmere fibers and combine with fibers and ferrous ions during dyeing,so both the dry rubbing fastness and wet rubbing fastness are good.Previous studies have shown that the rubbing fastness of madder to silk and cellulose fibers is excellent,but that of cashmere is poor.In this regard,it is proposed to use hydrogen peroxide to moderate de-flake treatment of cashmere fibers.The results show that the hydrophobic scales on the surface of cash

关 键 词：茜草植物染料 羊绒 摩擦牢度 酒石酸-明矾 

分 类 号：TS193.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]