下肢运动状态特征对裤装臀围的影响分析  

Analysis of influence of lower limb movement characteristics on hip circumference of pants

作　　者：吴冬雪 刘让同[1,2,3] 于媛媛 李淑静 韩赟[1] WU Dongxue;LIU Rangtong;YU Yuanyuan;LI Shujing;HAN Yun(Zhongyuan University of Technology,Zhengzhou,Henan 451191,China;Collaborative Innovation Center of Advanced Textile Equipment,Zhengzhou,Henan 451191,China;Henan Province Key Laboratory of Functional Textile Materials,Zhengzhou,Henan 451191,China)

机构地区：[1]中原工学院,河南郑州451191 [2]先进纺织装备技术省部共建协同创新中心,河南郑州451191 [3]河南省功能纺织材料重点实验室,河南郑州451191

出　　处：《纺织学报》2024年第1期168-175,共8页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家重点基础研究发展计划项目(2017YFB0309100)。

摘　　要：为达成合体不束缚目标,探究裤装在不同运动状态下的臀围需求,综合分析人体特征参数、下肢动态参数的约束关系,基于单腿、双腿抬起为起点探讨臀围截面形态变化规律,构建了臀围与人体特征参数、下肢动态参数之间的数学模型,并进行趋势分析以及模型修正。研究结果表明:在单侧抬腿状态时,臀围会随着方向角度α的增加呈现先减小后增大的趋势;而在双侧抬腿状态时,其与臀围呈现负相关关系。抬起角度β与臀围呈正相关,在抬起角度β≤60°时,可按人体运动需求角度计算裤装臀围值;在β>60°时,需要使用坐宽参数代替臀围宽度参数。在下肢多种运动状态下选取臀围变化后的最大值作为不束缚人体的裤装臀围最小值。模型解决了下肢运动状态对裤装臀围的影响,可为裤装臀围制版提供理论依据,为服装定制提供理论参考。Objective It may be uncomfortable for human being to wear clothing that conforms to the static state during certain motion states.Since the hip of human body are complex curved bodies,pantsuitsshould not only fit the lower limbs under static state,but also meet the needs of dynamic deformation caused by motion.Therefore,it is necessary to explore the hip circumference requirementsof trouser suit in different motion states so as to achieve the goal of fitting without binding.Method The constraint relationship between human body characteristics and dynamic parameters of lower limbs was comprehensively analyzed,and the morphological variation rule of hip circumference section was discussed based on single leg and double leg lifting.The mathematical model between hip circumference and human characteristics,dynamic parameters of lower limbs was constructed,and the trend analysis and model modification were carried out.Results In exploring the relationship between hip circumference and state parameters,the analysis was performed using the control variable method.The hip circumference size increased with the increase of lifting angleβin both unilateral and bilateral leg lifts,and the change rate increased continuously,and the slope of their curve increased sharply and changed more obviously after 80°,in which the hip circumference in the bilateral leg lift state was more sensitive to the lifting angle.The variation curve of Pantship circumference with direction angleαwas shown,in whichβ=45°.When the lifting angle of the single leg is 45°,the hip circumference of trouser suit will first decrease and then increase with the increase of the direction angleα.When the legs were raised 45°,the hip circumference of trouser suit gradually decreased with the increase ofα,and rapidly decreased after 60°.In the application of the model,based on the basic leg range of motion of human body,60°was used as the cut-off point and divided into two cases for discussion.Whenβ≤60°,the walking state hip circumference was calcul

关 键 词：裤装臀围 人体特征 方向角度 抬起角度 臀围模型 服装定制 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]