文胸罩杯透湿率测定新方法  

Novel method for determining water vapor permeability of bra cups

作　　者：王兆芳 张辉[1,2] 丁波 张淼 WANG Zhaofang;ZHANG Hui;DING Bo;ZHANG Miao(College of Fashion ArTSand Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100020,China;BIFT·Aimer Underwear Research Institute,Beijing 100102,China;Aimer Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 100102,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100020 [2]北服·爱慕内衣研究院,北京100102 [3]爱慕股份有限公司,北京100102

出　　处：《纺织学报》2024年第1期176-184,共9页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：北京服装学院爱慕内衣研究院研发项目(HXKY05190336)。

摘　　要：针对现行的织物透湿率测试标准和方法较难测定曲面织物和厚度不均匀织物的局限,导致文胸产品缺乏系统的透湿性能测定方法的问题,本文提出一种新型文胸罩杯透湿率的测定方法胸部模型法。首先展开理论探索,获得纯水蒸发率与空气层厚度、倾斜角度、介质种类的关系;再进行算法程序设计和交互页面设计;最后进行设备稳定性测试和与正杯法透湿率测试方法对比实验,完成其综合可行性验证。结果表明:由该新型文胸罩杯透湿率测定方法测定出的不同罩杯透湿率一方面能够表征其透湿性能差异,另一方面变异系数较小,设备稳定性高;并且该方法得出的透湿率与正杯法测出的透湿率存在较高的一致性。综上得出新型文胸罩杯透湿率测定方法是一种理想的测定文胸产品透湿性能方法。Objective The current testing standards and methods for fabric water vapor permeability are only applicable to sheet fabrics withuniform thickness and flatness,and cannot measure fabrics with curved surfaces and fabrics with uneven thickness,which leads to the lack of systematic water vapor permeability measurement methods for bra products.Method This paper proposes a method for measuring the water vapor permeability of bra cups to solve the above problems.The main body of the equipment adoptsthe idea of"differential method",and consistsof multiple slender water vapor permeable columns with a ground area of 1 cm×1 cm that continuously change in inclination angles to form a breast model with an arc-shaped evaporation surface.The innovations of the equipment are as follows:1.the evaporation surface is designed to fit the cup radian more closely;2.the sodium polyacrylate solution with a mass ratio of m PNNa∶m H2O=1∶500 is used instead of the pure water,which approximately eliminates the water vapor resistance of the air layer above the evaporating liquid surface.According to the relationship between the evaporation rate of pure water and the thickness of the air layer,the relationship between the evaporation rate of pure water and the type of medium,the relationship between different concentrations of sodium polyacrylate solution and the obtained the corresponding curve fitting equations were adopted to calculate the corresponding evaporation coefficientsK air,K angle and K PNNNa.Then algorithm and program design were carried out and the Visual Basic programming language was adopted to write the model method cup water vapor permeability calculation program.The program realizes the selection of water vapor permeability area,the input of independent variables such as mass and time,and the calculation of water vapor permeability.During the measurement,under the environmental conditions of temperature of 25℃,humidity of 30%,and wind speed of 0.4 m/s,the water vapor permeable column covered by the cup sample with

关 键 词：透湿率 文胸 文胸透湿率测评 热湿舒适性 透湿性能 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]