宋杂剧首服“诨裹”的形制与流行原因  

The Form and Popularity of the Head Costume of Hunguo in Song Opera

作　　者：张彬 Zhang Bin

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学服装与艺术设计学院

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2024年第1期61-67,共7页Art & Design Research

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学青年项目“考古学视域下的宋代戏剧服饰研究”(项目编号:22CB165)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：首服“诨裹”最早出现并流行于宋代,是一种经过杂剧艺人夸张、变形处理后,带有滑稽色彩的头巾,也是副末或副净表演时使用的一种首服,与宋杂剧滑稽调笑的表演形式和角色属性有关。本文从物质文化研究角度出发,通过文献与文物的相互印证,全面系统地对其进行了考察。研究表明:宋杂剧艺人首服“诨裹”的主要形制可以归纳为三种类型,并与宋代乐舞艺人首服缠头的形制不同,具有一定的特殊性;其流行原因与宋杂剧表演形式和角色扮演的需要密切相关;它是在宋人日常生活首服基础上加工创造出的“新首服”。宋杂剧艺人的“诨裹”样式,为后世元明杂剧首服的发展提供了借鉴与创新基础。The head costume of Hunguo first appeared and became popular in the Song Dynasty.It is a headband with a humorous color that has been exag-gerated and transformed by Zaju performers.It is also a first costume used in the final or final performances,and is related to the performance form and character attributes of Song opera’s comical teasing.This article starts from the perspective of material culture research and comprehensively and systematically examines it through the mutual verification of literature and cultural relics.Research has shown that the main forms of the first attire of Song opera artists,known as“Hun Guo”can be summarized into three types,which are different from the form of the first attire of the Song Dynasty music and dance artists,and have certain peculiarities.The reason for its popularity is closely related to the performance form and role-playing needs of Song opera.It is a“new head costume”created based on the daily life of the Song people.The Hunguo style of Song opera artists provided a reference and innovative basis for the development of the first costumes of Yuan and Ming opera in later generations.

关 键 词：宋杂剧 诨裹 形制 日常生活首服 流行 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]