《东大寺献物帐》所载七条刺纳树皮色袈裟  

Quilted Kasaya in seven strips of mottled colors contained in Todai-ji Kenmotsu Cho

作　　者：刘瑜[1] 张焱维 LIU Yu;ZHANG Yanwei(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2024年第1期111-117,共7页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：国家社会科学基金重大招标项目(16ZDA173)。

摘　　要：对正仓院文书《东大寺献物帐》所载七条刺纳树皮色袈裟进行考证研究,以解读袈裟的宗教及政治意义。运用多重证据法,结合原始文献、图像与实物资料,分析帐目中所载袈裟的服装制式得出:七条袈裟服用规格并不高;色彩遵循佛教教义着坏色;面料材质包含绢、绫、絁,工艺为刺纳,均精致考究;穿着样式可能不似汉制,为双肩披覆;作为自用爱物的袈裟,可为圣武天皇平衡其佛教徒、统治者2种身份。This paper examines the quilted Kasaya in seven strips of mottled colors contained in the Shosoin document Todai-ji Kenmotsu Cho,in order to interpret the religious and political significance of the Kasayas.With the multiple evidence method,the original documentary records with images and materials were combined to analyze the clothing system of the Kasayas.The results show that seven strips Kasayas are not of a high dressing standard;the colors follow the bad colors of the Buddhist regulation;the fabrics are made of plain weave,damask and shi,and the craftsmanship consists of quilting,which are all exquisite;the dressing style of the Kasayas may be different from the Chinese mode,which was shoulder covered and draped;and as a personal possession,these Kasayas became the garment that Emperor Shomu used to balance his identity as a Buddhist and a dynastic ruler.

关 键 词：袈裟 《东大寺献物帐》 正仓院 奈良时代 圣武天皇 

分 类 号：TS941.74[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]