化妆品植物原料(Ⅶ)——抗真菌的植物原料的研究与开发  

Botanical cosmetic ingredients(VII)Research and development of plant antifungal

作　　者：柳婧璇 金建明[1,2] 吴华[1,2] Jingxuan Liu;Jianming Jin;Hua Wu(School of Light Industry Science and Engineering,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China;Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China)

机构地区：[1]北京工商大学轻工科学与工程学院,北京100048 [2]北京工商大学化妆品监管科学研究院,北京100048

出　　处：《日用化学工业（中英文）》2024年第3期259-266,共8页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(31971382)。

摘　　要：文章介绍了皮肤真菌及其相关皮肤疾病,总结了植物提取物的抗真菌作用机理及其相应作用靶点。植物中具有抗真菌的活性成分主要为酚类、生物碱、黄酮、萜类、甾体和精油等。这些植物抗真菌活性成分的作用机制主要通过破坏真菌细胞壁和细胞膜结构而产生抗真菌功效:破坏细胞壁结构的作用靶点是抑制β-葡聚糖合酶、几丁质合酶和甘露聚糖合酶活性;作用于细胞膜的靶点是细胞膜的结构组分麦角甾醇和鞘脂,通过抑制其相关合成酶麦角甾醇合酶、丝氨酸软脂酰辅酶A转移酶、神经酰胺合酶和肌糖磷脂酰神经酰胺合酶,以及直接靶向结合麦角甾醇和鞘脂来破坏真菌细胞膜结构;另外,酚类、生物碱、黄酮、萜类和精油也可以靶向作用于线粒体,通过诱导活性氧积累、抑制ATP合成和质子泵,破坏线粒体呼吸和代谢系统,而产生抗真菌作用。文章通过对植物中的不同抗真菌活性成分和作用机制的阐述,希望能为抗真菌植物原料在化妆品中的开发提供借鉴,更好地维持皮肤健康。This paper describes skin fungi and fungal skin infections,and summarizes the antifungal mechanism and the corresponding drug targets of the bioactive compounds from plants.The active antifungal compounds from plants include polyphenols,alkaloids,flavonoids,terpenoids,steroids and essential oils,etc.The main antifungal mechanism is inhibition of fungal cell wall and cell membrane biosynthesis.The target of cell wall biosynthesis inhibition is via inhibiting the activities ofβ-glucan synthetase,chitin synthase and mannan synthase.And the target of cell membrane biosynthesis inhibition is via inhibiting the synthesis of the structural components,ergosterol and sphingolipids.By inhibiting ergosterol synthetase,serine palmitoyltransferase,ceramide synthase and myo-inositol phosphatidyl ceramide synthase,the active components from plants can also directly bind to ergosterol and sphingolipids and destruct the cell membrane.In addition,phenols,alkaloids,flavonoids,terpenoids and essential oils also target mitochondrion to display antifungal activity,by inducing reactive oxygen species(ROS)accumulation,inhibiting ATP biosynthesis and proton pumps,and disrupt the mitochondrial respiration and metabolic system.This paper has reviewed the antifungal mechanisms of bioactive compounds from plants,hoping to provide a reference for the applications of plant materials in cosmetics,for a better maintaining of skin health.

关 键 词：植物提取物 抗真菌活性 抗真菌作用机理 化妆品 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]