4-取代酚诱导化学性白斑的机制及研究进展  

Mechanism and research progress of chemical leukoderma induced by 4-substituted phenols

作　　者：张婉萍 彭祺 张冬梅 郑时莲 蒋汶 顾理浩 Wanping Zhang;Qi Peng;Dongmei Zhang;Shilian Zheng;Wen Jiang;Lihao Gu(School of Perfume and Aroma Technology,Shanghai Institute of Technology,Shanghai 201418,China;The Oriental Beauty Valley Research Institute,Shanghai 201403,China)

机构地区：[1]上海应用技术大学香料香精技术与工程学院,上海201418 [2]上海东方美谷产业研究院,上海201403

出　　处：《日用化学工业（中英文）》2024年第3期320-328,共9页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(22302127);上海应用技术大学协同创新基金(XTCX2022-30)。

摘　　要：4-取代酚是一类广泛应用于制药、农药、染料、食品添加剂以及化妆品中的有机化合物。4-取代酚在化妆品中的应用主要是由于其与酪氨酸的结构上的相似性,使其具有独特的抑制酪氨酸酶活性以及抑制皮肤中黑色素形成的效果,因此包括熊果苷、白藜芦醇等化学物质在内,已有多种4-取代酚作为美白成分用于化妆品中。但包括杜鹃醇在内的4-取代酚同时也具有一定安全风险,大量研究表明许多4-取代酚具有黑素细胞毒性,且不同的取代基也会对黑素细胞毒性的诱导途径、毒性强弱等产生不同的影响,使用不当可能会诱发白癜风(Vitiligo)和白斑病(Leukoderma)的产生,对消费者的健康造成损害。本文综述了4-取代酚及杜鹃醇的美白及黑素细胞毒性机制,以及不同国家发生白斑病的案例,以期为开发更安全的有美白效果的化学物质提供参考。4-substituted phenols are a class of organic compounds widely used in pharmaceuticals,pesticides,dyes,food additives and cosmetics.The application of 4-substituted phenols in cosmetics is mainly due to its structural similarity with tyrosine,which makes it have a unique effect of inhibiting tyrosinase activity and inhibiting melanin formation in the skin.Therefore,including chemical substances such as arbutin and resveratrol,there are many 4-substituted phenols used as whitening ingredients in cosmetics.However,4-substituted phenols including hydroquinone also have certain safety risks.A large number of studies have shown that many 4-substituted phenols have melanocyte toxicity,and different substituents will also induce different pathways and toxicities of melanocyte toxicity.The improper use of them may induce the occurrence of vitiligo and leukoderma,causing harm to the consumers’health.This article reviews the whitening and melanocyte toxicity mechanisms of 4-substituted phenols and hydroquinone,as well as the cases of leukoderma in different countries,in order to provide reference for the development of safer whitening chemicals.

关 键 词：4-取代酚 杜鹃醇 化学性白斑 机制 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]