毛型制服面料弹性测试对比与分析  

Comparison and analysis of elastic testing for wool uniform fabrics

作　　者：张艳茹 王凤霖 陈敏 姜爱娟 肖红 李颖 王妮[1] ZHANG Yanru;WANG Fenglin;CHEN Min;JIANG Aijuan;XIAO Hong;LI Ying;WANG Ni(Key Laboratory of Textile Science&Technology of Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Jiangsu Jianlu Wool Textile Co.,Ltd.,Suqian,Jiangsu 223800,China;Institute of Military Supplies Engineering Technology,Academy of Systems Engineering,Academy of Military Sciences,Beijing 100082,China;Hubei Key Laboratory of New Environmental Composite Fabrics,Wuhan,Hubei 441002,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室,上海201620 [2]江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司,江苏宿迁223800 [3]军事科学院系统工程研究院军需工程技术研究所,北京100082 [4]新型环保复合面料湖北省重点实验室,湖北武汉441002

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第3期120-125,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：江苏省宿迁市科技成果转化项目(C202101)。

摘　　要：为了探究含氨纶和聚对苯二甲酸丁二酯纤维/聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PBT/PET)双组分复合弹性纤维制备的毛型制服面料之间的弹性差异,参照不同的弹性测试标准和不同的测试方法对毛型制服面料的弹性回复性能进行测试,比较面料组分、测试条件等对毛型制服面料弹性的影响。研究结果表明:在面料初始弹性相近的条件下,含PBT/PET双组分复合弹性纤维的毛型制服面料相较含氨纶型面料具有更好的弹性耐久性;随着反复拉伸次数增加,含氨纶面料和含PBT/PET双组分复合弹性弹性纤维面料弹性回复率下降,塑性变形率增加;当面料中弹性纤维含量一定时,面料中其他组分如涤纶、毛等组成纤维比例的差异会对面料的弹性差异造成一定影响;当测试选用的定伸长率或定负荷值小于屈服点对应值时,定伸长率值或定负荷值与屈服点对应值越接近,面料的塑性积累越多。In order to explore the elastic differences between woollen uniform fabrics containing spandex and polybutylene terephthalate fiber/polyethylene terephthalate(PBT/PET)two-component composite elastic fibers,the elastic recovery performance of wool uniform fabrics was tested with reference to different elasticity test standards and different test methods,and the effects of fabric components and test conditions on the elasticity of wool uniform fabrics were compared.The research results indicate that under the condition of similar initial elasticity of the fabric,the wool type uniform fabric containing PBT/PET two-component composite elastic fibers has better elastic durability than the spandex-containing fabric.With the increase of repeated stretching,the elastic recovery rate of spandex-containing fabrics and PBT/PET two-component composite elastic fiber fabrics decreased,and the plastic deformation rate increased.When the elastic fiber content in the fabric is constant,the difference in the proportion of other components in the fabric,such as polyester,wool and other components,will have a certain impact on the elastic difference of the fabric.When the constant elongation or constant load value selected for the test is less than the corresponding value of the yield point,the closer the fixed elongation value or the constant load value is to the corresponding value of the yield point,the more plasticity accumulation of the fabric.

关 键 词：毛型制服面料 氨纶 PBT/PET 弹性 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]